Last year, beauty sales in the food, drug and mass channel gained just 3 percent to $21.2 billion, according to Symphony IRI Group. At Target, however, the picture was markedly rosier. There, beauty outpaced the market, with some categories, like color cosmetics, doubling the gains of the overall market. Target’s success in makeup is notable, because the business model it created for the category—driven by newness, innovation and an influx of exclusive and upscale brands—is one it hopes to replicate as the retailer looks to rejuvenate its skin-care business and gobble up market share across all categories. Recently, WWD’s executive editor of beauty, Pete Born, flew out to Chicago to tour one of Target’s marquee beauty stores with José Barra, the retailer’s senior vice president, merchandising, of health and beauty. From sales associates, called concierges, to Spanish-language signage, Born found that the future is definitely not big- box business as usual. “We have pushed,” Barra says. “We are a company that’s going to take risks and we’re going to push the boundaries to the extent that we can.” Find out how in “The Value of Innovation.” Amazon is no stranger to pushing boundaries, as those in businesses such as books, music and electronics can no doubt attest. Now, the e-commerce giant has turned its sights to beauty—for better or for worse. Yes, the Internet is retail’s fastest growing channel and Amazon’s number of active customers is a staggering 188 million. But the numbers aren’t enough to sway many brands, especially the established luxe lines that Amazon covets most, as I discovered when reporting “Ready or Not.” The implications for our industry are enormous, and the issues raised many. Doubtless Jean-Jacques Lebel is keeping close tabs on Amazon’s progress. As the vice president and managing director of L’Oréal’s consumer products division, Lebel oversees the biggest branch of the world’s largest beauty company, the division spearheading the audacious corporate goal of attracting one billion new consumers worldwide. Jennifer Weil, our European beauty editor, recently sat down for a wide-ranging talk with the executive to find out how he plans to do just that. You can read about his strategy in “Man of the World.” This marks WWD Beauty Inc’s third annual retail issue, and once again, we’ve combed the world to bring you the most innovative new retail formats that have opened in the past year. While the stores that are featured this year range from a boutique that reinvents how tea is sold to an eco-centric café-cum- clothing boutique, a common theme does emerge: The newest stores are as much about community as they are about commerce. Take a tour in “The Age of Experience.” I’d love to hear your views on the many emerging formats most impacting beauty—online or off. E-mail me at jenny_fine@ fairchildfashion.com. 6 Key Points From This Issue 1. U.S.A.!: Prestige sales will stay strong in North America for the foreseeable future, despite economic uncertainty. 2. BIG-BOX MOXIE: Target’s emphasis on newness and innovation is unwavering as it looks to gain market share. 3. THE AMAZON EFFECT: As the e-commerce giant sets its sights on beauty, brands big and small are grappling with the right approach. 4. ALL TOGETHER NOW: Community combines with commerce in the coolest new stores. 5. BACK IN BLACK: Strong, graphic eyes rimmed in inky black liner were all the rage at the New York fall collections. 6. WORLD VIEW: From men’s skin care in Asia to nails in the U.S., targeted categories will be key to global growth.
"In order for Shudu to wear garments, she needs to be able to put them on, just like you would in the real world. You have to digitize the outfits," said Cameron-James Wilson on dressing 3-D model @shudu.gram for her WWD photoshoot. #wwdfashion ( 📸: @cjw.photo )
“Shudu is a digital supermodel, a very glamour and amazing woman. But she’s 3-D,” says Cameron-James Wilson, a fashion photographer and the creature of @shudu.gram. Here, Shudu wears @cushnieetochs for her debut fashion editorial. #wwdfashion (📷: @cjw.photo)
“It is the fierce female performances that came before me that made be able to clearly identify for myself what it was that I wanted to do, what kind of artist I wanted to be, what kind of films I wanted to make,” said @brielarson at the Women in Film Crystal + Lucy Awards. See more pictures from the event on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: Matt Baron)
“On a personal level, it’s my vision to create a really different idea with their look to be at the epitome of women’s fashion in South Korea – to create a new milestone,” said stylist @chochowon on dressing K-pop’s most fashionable girl group, @blackpinkofficial. WWD’s @mistywhitesidell sat down with Won ahead of the group’s new album release, “Square Up,” which is out today. Read the full interview on WWD.com. #wwdfashion #blackpink_squareup #blackpink
For @ralphlauren, 2018 is a reason to celebrate: It marks the brand’s 50th year in business. Last year’s chauffeured show in Bedford, NY featuring his vintage car collection may have seemed like the big celebration to show-goers, but they were wrong. The official celebration will be held on September 7 during #NYFW. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdfashion (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)