August means the annual publication of the WWD Beauty Biz Top 100, a ranking of the world's biggest beauty companies. A truly mammoth undertaking overseen by our European beauty editor Jennifer Weil, the Top 100 is an unsparing look at the year that was, based solely on sales figures. The 2009 edition demonstrates the impact of the economic recession in stark terms. Of the top 10 companies, only one—number three–ranked Unilever—posted a sales increase for the year. (In comparison, in last year's Top 10, eight posted sales gains.) Others, including the top-ranked L'Oréal, reported their first loss in years. In all, 49 companies increased their sales in 2009, 47 suffered a decrease and four companies were flat compared with 2008, when 74 companies were up, 15 were down and 11 were flat. The total $140.78 billion in sales generated by the 100 companies combined was down 16.3 percent in 2009 versus 2008.
The news coming from the list isn't all grim, however. Companies based in emerging markets, particularly Brazil, China and India, posted impressive growth rates. Many direct-sales companies around the world also weathered the storm, reporting sizable increases in their number of sales representatives and in overall product sales, including Brazil-based Natura Cosméticos, up 18.6 percent to claim the number-15 spot, and number-22 Peru-based Belcorp International, up 12.5 percent. The three companies on the list that are based in South Korea all fared extremely well—number-20 Pacific Corp., number-34 LG Household & Health Care and number-88 Able C&C posted increases of 20.7 percent, 9.5 percent and 79.1 percent, respectively. Discover who's on top—and who's not.
Elsewhere in this issue, you'll find an in-depth report on the beauty trends that emerged from the fall-winter couture shows in Paris. With only a handful of shows on the roster versus hundreds, couture is a much more intimate affair for makeup artists and hairstylists, a laboratory where they can explore ideas and concepts. For a look at the key directions to emerge from the season, turn to "Chic Week." The couture runways featured an exuberant use of color, but one of the major trends to emerge during the fall-winter ready-to-wear shows was the return of the neutral makeup palette. Of course, the barely-there look is a staple of most women's beauty repertoires. But what makes the trend particularly modern this season is the panoply of textures and tones present in the season's offerings, resulting in a look that's sultry, sculptural and, most of all, very sophisticated, as you'll see in "The New Nude."
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews