August means the annual publication of the WWD Beauty Biz Top 100, a ranking of the world's biggest beauty companies. A truly mammoth undertaking overseen by our European beauty editor Jennifer Weil, the Top 100 is an unsparing look at the year that was, based solely on sales figures. The 2009 edition demonstrates the impact of the economic recession in stark terms. Of the top 10 companies, only one—number three–ranked Unilever—posted a sales increase for the year. (In comparison, in last year's Top 10, eight posted sales gains.) Others, including the top-ranked L'Oréal, reported their first loss in years. In all, 49 companies increased their sales in 2009, 47 suffered a decrease and four companies were flat compared with 2008, when 74 companies were up, 15 were down and 11 were flat. The total $140.78 billion in sales generated by the 100 companies combined was down 16.3 percent in 2009 versus 2008.
The news coming from the list isn't all grim, however. Companies based in emerging markets, particularly Brazil, China and India, posted impressive growth rates. Many direct-sales companies around the world also weathered the storm, reporting sizable increases in their number of sales representatives and in overall product sales, including Brazil-based Natura Cosméticos, up 18.6 percent to claim the number-15 spot, and number-22 Peru-based Belcorp International, up 12.5 percent. The three companies on the list that are based in South Korea all fared extremely well—number-20 Pacific Corp., number-34 LG Household & Health Care and number-88 Able C&C posted increases of 20.7 percent, 9.5 percent and 79.1 percent, respectively. Discover who's on top—and who's not.
Elsewhere in this issue, you'll find an in-depth report on the beauty trends that emerged from the fall-winter couture shows in Paris. With only a handful of shows on the roster versus hundreds, couture is a much more intimate affair for makeup artists and hairstylists, a laboratory where they can explore ideas and concepts. For a look at the key directions to emerge from the season, turn to "Chic Week." The couture runways featured an exuberant use of color, but one of the major trends to emerge during the fall-winter ready-to-wear shows was the return of the neutral makeup palette. Of course, the barely-there look is a staple of most women's beauty repertoires. But what makes the trend particularly modern this season is the panoply of textures and tones present in the season's offerings, resulting in a look that's sultry, sculptural and, most of all, very sophisticated, as you'll see in "The New Nude."
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews
@prada is introducing a new project at its men’s fall 2018 show this Sunday: “Prada Invites.” The fashion house invited four celebrated creative minds – @ronanaerwanbouroullec, Konstantin Grcic, @herzogdemeuron and @rem.koolhaas – to each create a unique item with its iconic nylon material. The designs will be unveiled on the runway show, which will take place at the company’s warehouse in Viale Ortles 25. #wwdfashion #mfwm (📷: @martinocarrera)
@kering_official is spinning off its stake in puma in an effort to focus on its luxury brands, the brand operator announced yesterday. “We are proud to have supported the turnaround of Puma, which now has unrivaled capabilities to take full advantage of the specific dynamics of its global markets and is poised to achieve substantial growth,” said François-Henri Pinault, Kering’s chief executive officer and chairman. Artémis will become a “long-term strategic shareholder” of Puma with a 29 percent stake. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
The fashion world mourns for celebrated street style photographer, Nabile Quenum, who died at age 32 in Paris.
Quenum, creator of the fashion blog “J’ai Perdu Ma Veste,” was a fashion week fixture, and regularly shot for New York magazine’s The Cut, among other outlets, and brands such as Louis Vuitton, Moncler and Adidas. He was also actively involved in the #NoFreePhotos initiative, which kicked off in the fall. Read more about Quenum in @kbsmoke's story on WWD.com. #wwdnews
@verwanggang and @maisonladuree have teamed up on a dessert collab called Vera Wang Pour Ladurée. The collection, which launched this week, features a specialty macaroon, as well as a wedding cake inspired by one of the designer’s gowns. “I could not imagine a more delicate or sophisticated creation to grace any couple’s celebration,” said Wang. #wwdfashion