Catherine Malandrino transformed her spring showcase into a global safari Tuesday afternoon, grouping girls into sects hailing from regions as far flung as the Sahara and the Sudan, to the Andes and Polynesia. And nowhere was the designer’s ethnic inspiration more evident than the hair created by Laurent Philippon on behalf of Bumble and bumble.
“Catherine was really inspired by four different ethnic groups,” he said, twisting hair into an African-style updo. “The first group is Sudanese-inspired, and I love this hairstyle because it is very African, but at the same time it has a punk twist to it with this Mohawk-shaped bun on top.” To achieve this, Philippon used Bumble’s gluelike gel, called Gelac, taking little sections of hair and twisting them until they arrived at a bun on the top of the head.
To evoke Saharan Nomads, Philippon transformed girls’ hair into actual turbans, creating a “very dry texture” in strands before applying styling wax. To give hair a sandy desertlike vibe, he finished off the Saharan look with a generous amount of hair powder.
Polynesian natives were articulated though hair that was worn long, natural and wavy. Bumble and bumble’s Prep was sprayed throughout hair, before it was braided into “two fat” sections, blown out and left to cool. “Then we brushed it out for this very healthy, beautiful wave,” said Philippon, who mirrored Peruvian Tribes for the final grouping with two thick braids that were sewn together at the bottom.
“Disjointed makeup,” according to lead artist Tom Pecheux, who was working on behalf of MAC Cosmetics, was also meant to echo the “ethnic tribal” origin of the clothes. “Catherine wanted to have a real connection with the makeup,” he said.
To do this, products were applied with fingers for “a rough look” that was predominantly matte.Eyes stood out thanks to a dark palette ranging from browns to blacks, and a lot of mascara. MAC’s Feline Pencil was smudged inside the eyes.
Pecheux applied a combination of MAC’s PRO Sculpt Powders to blush the apple of the cheeks, using his finger. “We did it very badly so it would look and feel like a sunburn.” The brand’s chestnut lip pencil — a brownish-red lip color — was also rubbed in with fingers for a desertlike hue.
@pantone announced their Color of the Year 2018: Ultra Violet. Nearly 20 months after the musician Prince’s death, fashion is having a purple moment. Varying shades of purple appeared on spring or fall runways, from @christopherkane to @calvinklein. @gucci’s Alessandro Michele bathed his fall runway in ultra violet-colored light at one point. Pantone 18-3838 is meant to “push the boundaries of what inspires us to look upward and outward to the future.” #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@badgalriri’s @fentybeauty launch in September was a massive success on social media, powering $72.9 million of earned media value, according to Tribe Dynamics. The brand’s foundation offering sparked conversations about diversity in beauty, launching the growth of emerging influencers and propelling the brand’s support on social media. Today, #fentybeauty won Launch of the Year at the WWD #BeautyIncAwards. (📷: Chema Moya/EPE-EFE)
@marianna_hewitt has become one of the most influential content creators in the beauty space, with almost 800,000 Instagram followers and a newly launched skin care line called @SummerFridays. Today, she was awarded Influencer of the Year at the WWD #BeautyIncAwards. (📸: @sophiachabbott )
As shopping behaviors evolve, the retail experience must follow. Head over to retail experts @colliersinternational’s Knowledge Leader series to read more about the shift in our shopping era. #colliersretail #lovecolliers
@prada opened a pop-up club, called Prada Double Club, in collaboration with German artist Cartsen Höller at @artbasel Miami. Last night, guests – including @youngparis, @ritaora and even Miuccia Prada herself – gathered in a former ice factory where the pop-up is housed for a performance from @wyclefjean. Go to WWD.com for full coverage on all the exhibits, parties and more at #ArtBaselMiami. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
@louboutinworld and @disney are making magic once again, creating a set of shoe designs for the release of “Star Wars: The Last Jedi.” Louboutin designed a pair of shoes for each of the film’s four female leads: Rey (@daisyridrey), Vice Admiral Amilyn Holdo (@lauradern), Captain Phasma (Gwendoline Christie) and Rose Tico (@kellymarietran). The shoes will debut on Saturday at the L.A. premiere of the latest episode. #wwdfashion
Today at the #BeautyIncAwards 2017, WWD will be joined by beauty leaders from around the world as we honor this year's most innovative people, products, brands and places. Follow along here and on Twitter for live coverage from the exclusive event. #wwdsummits (📷: @elizaflorendo)
Exclusive: Beauty superinfluencer @marianna_hewitt is launching her first-ever skin care brand with her business partner @laurengores. Their new line Summer Fridays, which will be sold exclusively at summerfridays.com starting in January, is launching with just one product – a hydrating cream Jet Lag Mask. “We wanted to focus on one product that was amazing,” said Hewitt. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Michelin star-rated chef PJ Calapa marks his first solo endeavor with today’s opening of @scampinyc –– the new Southern Italian restaurant located in Manhattans’ Flatiron District. The upscale yet welcoming environment matches the menu, which includes two types of scampi: traditional Italian langoustines in butter and the Americanized version with shrimp over pasta 🍤 - pictured here. #wwdeye (📷: George Chinsee)