By  on November 2, 2007

Tommy Hilfiger is singing a new tune — one designed for a refined lady — with Dreaming, a new fragrance he will launch in February. The upscale scent will be available in about 1,200 U.S. department stores and could do $10 million at retail in the U.S. in its first year on counter.

Tommy Hilfiger's fragrance business, like his apparel business, is embracing change.

In the wake of the designer's decision last week to sell his sportswear to Macy's only, he's also taking the opportunity to try a new tack with his fragrance business with a new women's fragrance coming in February.

While the designer's scents have long been on an all-American platform — complete with well-scrubbed preppy teens and twentysomethings frolicking on the beach or on horseback — Hilfiger's latest, Dreaming, takes the brand into new territory: sexy and a little more mature.

"This is a sensuous and seductive scent with an element of playfulness," said Hilfiger, adding that the Dreaming customer — an 18- to 30-year-old woman — is a little more sophisticated and slightly less sporty than the teenage target of many of his earlier scents. He's quick to add, though, that the biggest difference between the Tommy Girl customer and the Dreaming customer is "her psyche."

"[The process of] dreaming has an emotional power," said Hilfiger. "This fragrance taps into that power, no matter what [the consumer's] age."

Tommy's new twist is wholeheartedly welcomed by his fragrance licensee, the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc.

"[Tommy's brand] has had a revival," said Veronique Gabai-Pinsky, president of Aramis and Designer Fragrances, the division of Lauder that holds Hilfiger's fragrance license. "Tommy has upgraded his apparel, and we want to do the same for the fragrance."

While the brand is seen as luxurious and aspirational abroad, said Gabai-Pinsky, the brand needs to "reconnect" to those characteristics in Hilfiger's home country. "We believe we'll accomplish that with Dreaming," she said, adding that the concept is one that transcends Hilfiger's all-American approach. "This is truly a global concept," she said.

Hilfiger sees Dreaming as "the horse which will draw the cart" in the next year.

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