It was "goodbye girly" when it came to hair and makeup looks for fall 2007. Instead, the focus on the Paris runways was on the beauty of a more mature, independent woman.
"The girly thing is gone," confirmed hairstylist Orlando Pita, who said he's happy with the newly emerging trend, since it's more true-to-life in certain respects.
At some shows, one particular part of a model's face was amplified. At Chanel, for instance, makeup artist Peter Philips made a bold brow the most graphic element. "It was very colorful — full of checks and tweed," he said after seeing the collection before the show. "So I thought we would go simple with the makeup."
That makeup was paired with a coif created by hairstylist Odile Gilbert, who crimped a section of the models' hair and combed it over their faces like a veil. "We're using a texture that's maybe Seventies rock 'n' roll, but made it today," she said.
At Emanuel Ungaro, makeup artist Tom Pécheux was inspired by a "woman who loves the night and loves to be super self-confident." On that note, Pécheux focused on the eyes, applying a dark eyeliner and a smoky, army green shadow. The hair was styled to look "very sultry," according to hairstylist Luigi Murenu. "It's very sexy, very night-clubby, but we didn't do Eighties hair," he said.
The Chloé woman, on the other hand, was meant to look like a rebel. Pita blew models' hair straight, leaving a few strands hanging in front of their ears. He describes the look as that of "a girl from a good family who's a bit rebellious."
"What's happening with the makeup is that it gives a definite point of view," said Pécheux, who also did the makeup at Chloé, painting models' eyes and lips gray since designer Paulo Melim Andersson did not want "pretty girl," but instead a "strong, unusual woman."
So, too, was the woman at Balenciaga, where makeup artist Pat McGrath drew inspiration from Nicolas Ghesquière's collection to create a new street "tribe." For the look, McGrath swept white theatrical cosmetics over eyes and foreheads. "It's almost a symbol around the eyes," she said. "They wanted something quite daring, quite different."For other collections, beauty harkened back to the Forties, albeit with a modern twist. "When I think of the Forties, I think of ultimate glamour and strength," said McGrath, who made up models at Valentino with "a dark, winged eye, dark red lip and perfectly groomed skin." Pita rolled their hair with curling irons, let it set, then brushed it out in a side part.
At Christian Dior, McGrath and Pita also kept with a Forties theme, but with just a nod to yesteryear. The hair fell long and wavy, or twisted into updos. As for the makeup, McGrath said mouths had "a Forties shape made super-modern with gloss," in colors such as pink, orange or fuchsia; eyes were heavily painted and fake adhesive eyebrows were added.
For Louis Vuitton, McGrath featured a strong winged eye, painted on with liquid liner, while at Lanvin, she added contour around models' eyes. "We're seeing the girls as they are," McGrath said. "It's a bare, strong face."
Breaking News: @louisvuitton's men's artistic director @mrkimjones is leaving the French fashion house after nearly 7 years. Jones joined Louis Vuitton in 2011, following a three year tenure as creative director of British luxury goods brand Alfred Dunhill. Jones is to exit Louis Vuitton after showing his fall 2018 collection for the brand in Paris on Thursday. Read the full exclusive story on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
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Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews