By  on October 11, 2013

From classic to outlandish, a wide range of beauty looks characterized the New York spring collections.

White In

The use of white ranged from ethereal to edgy. Of the look he created at Creatures of the Wind, Nars Cosmetics’ James Boehmer said, “It’s sort of a pinup girl surrounded by surreal landscapes,” while at Altuzarra, Tom Pecheux, working with MAC, described his vision as “fresh yet sophisticated.” When white was used in the hair, things got more avant-garde, as at Thom Browne, where Bumble and bumble’s Jimmy Paul was inspired by the idea of an insane asylum. “The look is kind of uniform in its insanity,” he explained.

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Terra-Cotta Army

Tan took a turn to terra-cotta on many runways, with a pronounced emphasis on the cheek. At Anna Sui, Cover Girl’s Pat McGrath created a Pre-Raphaelite luminous look, while at Ohne Titel, MAC’s Lucia Pica created a face she described as futuristic by combining jewel-toned shadows on the outer edges of the eye and cheekbones with Luna Cream Color Base down the center of the face. At Donna Karan, MAC’s Charlotte Tilbury was inspired by Seventies icons Marisa Berenson and Lauren Hutton, dubbing her look “expensive hippie.” Tom Pecheux, also working for MAC, at Peter Som, applied blush in Pleasure Model at the apple of the cheeks to contour. “It’s a very nude face,” said Pecheux. “Peter wanted something very fresh and kind of raw.”

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