“We’re doing a girl of the future, which is something interesting to think about,” said James Kaliardos, for MAC. “Olivier imagined a girl that would go to sleep and have intravenous vitamins pumped into her system all night long so [she’d] wake up feeling really gorgeous and have all the nutrients they need. All the vitamins and minerals we are lacking. A lot of it has to do with skin care because when you are really healthy, your skin is just perfect.”
To achieve the look, Kaliardos used MAC Prep + Prime products, including the Skin Brightening Serum, the Beauty Balm and the Skin Smoother. “It’s like a magic cream that makes you look diffused and out of focus,” said Kaliardos of the Smoother, adding, “The Beauty Balm is a combo product that goes from an antibacterial cream to help with pimples to moisturizer to foundation and it just makes skin look really smooth and transparent, which is the look we’re going for.”
Kaliardos then applied MAC Shaping Powder Pro Palette in Accentuate on the cheekbone for a little bit of glow “without any pearlization” and layered it with Coffee Walnut to “cut the cheekbones so you look like you’re in a George Hurrell photograph from the Forties. “She’s like a woman from Hamburg,” he said. “It’s about giving shadow and contouring and cutting, but not in an orange-y Kim Kardashian way, in a more abstract, play-on-light kind of way.” Next, Kaliardos used Au Natural, a peachy beige hue, on lips and brushed brows with MAC Brow Set, leaving lashes without mascara. “The whole thing is about health,” he said. “It’s how can you do makeup without a smoky eye or a lipstick color. It’s how do you have a face which is lifted and sculpted and built the way the clothes are built and designed. Where you don’t feel like you have a lot of color going on. It’s using makeup in a noncolored way.” Kaliardos added of the completed look, “It’s brave I think for a woman to not wear mascara or makeup like that.”
Hair, styled by Odile Gilbert for Kérastase, was meant to be at once futuristic and realistic. Gilbert said Theyskens gave her three words as inspiration for the hairstyle: “‘Human, alien, touchable.’ [Olivier] always has a very nice imagination. For me, he’s like a poet in the way he works,” she said. Gilbert began by creating middle parts and adding ample amounts of Ciment Thermique, Fiber Architect and lots of Doubleforce Hairspray. “We want the hair to be shiny and healthy,” she said. “[It’s] very sleek, very straight.”
Next, Gilbert separated hair and secured it in the back with an elastic “to create a headband that’s done with the hair of the model,” she said. “And in the back you have hair very straight like a veil.” Of the hair’s texture, she said, “It had to be something very pure and touchable because who doesn’t want to touch silk,” she said. “It’s hair like silk.” What is Gilbert’s secret weapon to survive fashion week? “Good product, a bit of brain and hands,” she said simply.
Nails, done by Jin Soon Choi, were “clean, chic and nude.” Choi applied one coat of her Tulle Tulle nail polish, then two layers of Top Gloss topcoat for “high gloss,” said Choi. “We are trying to do very sheer and super glossy.”