Backstage at Giorgio Armani RTW Fall 2017


Giorgio Armani’s international makeup artist Linda Cantello had a mission to accomplish in conceiving the beauty look of the designer’s fall collection. “It’s all about making black easier for normal women to wear,” she said backstage.

Although this may sound simple in terms of clothes, in the beauty-sphere the process can be trickier. Cantello’s quest of “a new black” found a partner in a new Armani Runway eyeshadow gel product, which will be launched in September.

Made of a transparent polymer base, this comes in a very thin film texture, allowing a versatile application. Used in a dark shade for the show, the gel was both applied in its transparency of color and layered multiple times to have a richer and darker result.

Concentrated in a black square shape on the inner corner, the product was smudged out into a more translucent shimmery in the outer corner of the eye.

“We used a pencil just to get the shape because Mr. Armani always like these kind of square [shapes],” Cantello said. The makeup artist’s personal favorite feature is “the holographic sparkling of the new product, so it’s like a new way of doing glitter, too.”

Looking for contrast, a water-based gel eyeliner was applied for an additional high-shine and vinyl-like effect. As a final touch, the “Eyes to Kill” mascara enhanced the eye-centered look.

Three different colors and textures blended to create three-dimensional lips. Rouge d’Armani 101 served as luminous base, Lip Maestro shade 511 “Drama Pink” was then layered on the bottom lip while the Lip Maestro shade 502 “Art Deco” was applied only at the center to have a more vibrant effect.

On most models, the makeup had a foundation-free base using Armani Prima Glow-On Moisturizing Face Balm and High Precision Retouch products delivering a fresh looking skin without using powder-based products.

Also on skin, contouring was shaped with the Eye & Brow Maestro number 2 “Wenge Wood,” while highlights were realized with a mix of Fluid Sheer number 2 and number 8, for a pinkish glow. A warmer, golden tone option was applied to darker skin tones.

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