Thirties sepia photos inspired Charlotte Tilbury, working for MAC Cosmetics, at the Donna Karan show. “It’s luminous, glowing and digital,” said Tilbury of the look. She started with a cream highlighter around the eyes — “no contour, just light,” she said — and added chocolate brown mascara from root to lash on the top lids only. Next, she used MAC’s Paint Pot in Indian Wood, a rich bronze, completely around the eye in a Thirties rounded shape, adding MAC Pro Gold Pigment on the center of the eyelid. She finished the eye with MAC All Over Gloss for a shiny finish. Tilbury then used MAC Face & Body Foundation where needed on the face and in the eyebrows, putting concealer on the lips to keep the emphasis on the eyes.
Eugene Souleiman, working for Wella at the show, called his creation “romance meets raw,” noting he wanted to do something completely different from the polished look he created at Donna Karan last season. “It’s all about enhancing the imperfections,” he said. Souleiman started by liberally applying Wella Beach Spray to the hair to create a dry, textured finish, then did a low side part, pulling the hair back and rolling it up, flipping it in on itself. “It’s like loops of hair, but not overly done,” he said. “It feels opulent, and when the clothes hit it, it will become even more undone.” A nightmare to be sure for many hairstylists, but not for Souleiman: “I want the hair to feel like it’s been in the elements,” he said. “It mimics the fabrics in Donna’s collection — many of them have a great crumpled texture.”
Deborah Lippmann for Lippmann Collection did the nails in Believe, a color she created with Cher. “She wanted something fabulous that she could wear with both silver and gold, and yet wasn’t too much to wear with street clothes,” said Lippmann. “This shade is a mix of both silver and gold.
Usually Donna prefers nudes, but she wanted something shimmery, something that would pop without being overstated.” Lippmann applied the color to both fingers and toes: “The matchy-matchy trend is back,” she said.