At the recent men’s spring collections, designersagreed that it was time to shave off the models’ trendyretro beards and present their wares on men with afreshly barbered look. Within that refreshing trend, twomajor—and contrasting—hairstyle options emerged: thefringe and, its opposite, the slick.
One of the most directional fringe styles was seenat Jil Sander, where designer Raf Simons kicked off thespring season with a multicolored collection shown at anold-style imperial Italian villa. The models’ textured hairmatched accordingly. The longer fringe, with a slight curlover the forehead, was the 2011 incarnation of the JuliusCaesar cut, also known as the Regency hairstyle. Brandssuch as Burberry, Gucci and Neil Barrett also went forthe Roman emperor’s look.
Phillip Lim drew inspiration from classic icons suchas Steve McQueen to create a modern-dandy sensibility.“The look is about a guy with a fresh-faced naïve allureand an effortless rocker edge,” says Laurent Philippon ofBumble and bumble, the hairstylist who created the look.“Phillip envisions a man who is cool and sophisticated,youthful and rebellious, conﬁdent in his ways—some evensay cocky.” This effortless rocker look featured a matte-textured long fringe, cropped on the sides with a low sidepart. Volume on top, together with the soft wave featuringdepth and separation, created the desired soft-rebel effect.
At Viktor & Rolf, beach fringe was the look du jour.“We thought of the Forties ﬁlm star very dressed up,but on the beach,” said Viktor Horsting backstage at theshow. The multilayered and extreme textured fringe,executed with a precise and controlled styling, conjured abeachy yet elegant hairdo. Within this coastal bohemiansensibility, a subliminal longer-hair trend appeared.John Varvatos executed the look to perfection with a softromantic rocker attitude that felt elegant and fresh whilemaintaining a masculine street credibility.
On the slick side landed designers such as DuckieBrown and Emporio Armani. “We wanted to exerciserestraint and control by having a superclean slick-hair lookthat showed the minimalism and modernism directionof the spring collection,” said Duckie Brown designersSteven Cox and Daniel Silver, when asked about thehair inspiration for the show. They described it this way:“A pure thing, tight to the scalp and swept off the faceto show the models’ angular features.” Their slick styleincluded a dramatic classic part that complemented thedesigners’ experimentation with volume and proportions.
Ann Demeulemeester and Emporio Armani displayedthe most severe slick, glossy styles, channeling edgymilitary inﬂuences for their shows. Demeulemeester’sobsession with pulchritude led to a show of lean andspotless uniform-inspired silhouettes in which theextreme coiffed hair emphasized the overall regimented,minimalistic collection. At Emporio, Armani spicedthings up with a display of risqué black leather militaryattire that, together with blue eye shadow and drasticgelled-back hair, made for quite a spectacle.