At the recent men’s spring collections, designersagreed that it was time to shave off the models’ trendyretro beards and present their wares on men with afreshly barbered look. Within that refreshing trend, twomajor—and contrasting—hairstyle options emerged: thefringe and, its opposite, the slick.
One of the most directional fringe styles was seenat Jil Sander, where designer Raf Simons kicked off thespring season with a multicolored collection shown at anold-style imperial Italian villa. The models’ textured hairmatched accordingly. The longer fringe, with a slight curlover the forehead, was the 2011 incarnation of the JuliusCaesar cut, also known as the Regency hairstyle. Brandssuch as Burberry, Gucci and Neil Barrett also went forthe Roman emperor’s look.
Phillip Lim drew inspiration from classic icons suchas Steve McQueen to create a modern-dandy sensibility.“The look is about a guy with a fresh-faced naïve allureand an effortless rocker edge,” says Laurent Philippon ofBumble and bumble, the hairstylist who created the look.“Phillip envisions a man who is cool and sophisticated,youthful and rebellious, conﬁdent in his ways—some evensay cocky.” This effortless rocker look featured a matte-textured long fringe, cropped on the sides with a low sidepart. Volume on top, together with the soft wave featuringdepth and separation, created the desired soft-rebel effect.
At Viktor & Rolf, beach fringe was the look du jour.“We thought of the Forties ﬁlm star very dressed up,but on the beach,” said Viktor Horsting backstage at theshow. The multilayered and extreme textured fringe,executed with a precise and controlled styling, conjured abeachy yet elegant hairdo. Within this coastal bohemiansensibility, a subliminal longer-hair trend appeared.John Varvatos executed the look to perfection with a softromantic rocker attitude that felt elegant and fresh whilemaintaining a masculine street credibility.
On the slick side landed designers such as DuckieBrown and Emporio Armani. “We wanted to exerciserestraint and control by having a superclean slick-hair lookthat showed the minimalism and modernism directionof the spring collection,” said Duckie Brown designersSteven Cox and Daniel Silver, when asked about thehair inspiration for the show. They described it this way:“A pure thing, tight to the scalp and swept off the faceto show the models’ angular features.” Their slick styleincluded a dramatic classic part that complemented thedesigners’ experimentation with volume and proportions.
Ann Demeulemeester and Emporio Armani displayedthe most severe slick, glossy styles, channeling edgymilitary inﬂuences for their shows. Demeulemeester’sobsession with pulchritude led to a show of lean andspotless uniform-inspired silhouettes in which theextreme coiffed hair emphasized the overall regimented,minimalistic collection. At Emporio, Armani spicedthings up with a display of risqué black leather militaryattire that, together with blue eye shadow and drasticgelled-back hair, made for quite a spectacle.
Assouline is paying homage to the late Azzedine Alaïa with a reprint of "Alaïa Livre de Collection.” The book is comprised of photographs of the designer's summer 1992 runway show with models Christy Turlington Burns, Naomi Campbell and Tyra Banks, pictured here at right. #wwdfashion #alaia #tyrabanks
Fall 2018 accessories take on a painterly hue, with Nebulas Blue among Pantone’s top 10 colors of the season. (📸: @jonghyupstudio ; editor: @twallz21 ; stylist and set designer: @haideefindlaylevin ) #wwdaccessories
@americanapparelusa is relaunching the brand outside of the U.S. today, opening its online store to more than 200 countries. The company is also contemplating a return to brick-and-mortar, though details have not been confirmed. In tandem with the expanded distribution is a recasting of a social media ad campagn, called “Back to Basics,” pictured here, with a focus on diversity and a cast of models above the age of 21. Read more on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Exclusive: @britneyspears is continuing to expand her brand. The pop icon, who appears in @kenzo ’s latest campaign, is partnering with Epic Rights to launch a line of branded merchandise. Read @hernameislex ‘s story, link in bio. #wwdnews #britneyspears
The Duchess of Cambridge channeled Princess Diana’s look upon giving birth to Prince Harry, when she and the Duke of Cambridge departed the hospital with the new baby Prince this afternoon in London. #wwdeye #princeofcambridge
The new Prince of Cambridge has arrived! The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge posed with the 8-pound newborn. She wore a look from one of her go-to designers, @jennypackham. Tap link in bio for more. #wwdeye #princeofcambridge
Jewelry label @alisonlou has made a name for itself with fine jewelry that speaks to the Millennial market. Now @twallz21 reports that the label is bringing those playful ideas to a new affordable line of lucite hoops with the launch of Loucite by Alison Lou. Here’s a look from the line modeled by @emrata. #wwdaccessories
@sarahjessicaparker and @gilt are teaming up on a bridal ready-to-wear line. Tomorrow, Parker will launch SJP by Sarah Jessica Parker Bridal — and as part of the launch, Gilt will offer 15 exclusive styles from the SJP by Sarah Jessica Parker footwear collection that were designed to complement the new line. Made out of 10 styles, the line is designed for a variety of occasions, from bridal showers to receptions. Get more details on WWD.com #wwdfashion