At the recent men’s spring collections, designersagreed that it was time to shave off the models’ trendyretro beards and present their wares on men with afreshly barbered look. Within that refreshing trend, twomajor—and contrasting—hairstyle options emerged: thefringe and, its opposite, the slick.
One of the most directional fringe styles was seenat Jil Sander, where designer Raf Simons kicked off thespring season with a multicolored collection shown at anold-style imperial Italian villa. The models’ textured hairmatched accordingly. The longer fringe, with a slight curlover the forehead, was the 2011 incarnation of the JuliusCaesar cut, also known as the Regency hairstyle. Brandssuch as Burberry, Gucci and Neil Barrett also went forthe Roman emperor’s look.
Phillip Lim drew inspiration from classic icons suchas Steve McQueen to create a modern-dandy sensibility.“The look is about a guy with a fresh-faced naïve allureand an effortless rocker edge,” says Laurent Philippon ofBumble and bumble, the hairstylist who created the look.“Phillip envisions a man who is cool and sophisticated,youthful and rebellious, conﬁdent in his ways—some evensay cocky.” This effortless rocker look featured a matte-textured long fringe, cropped on the sides with a low sidepart. Volume on top, together with the soft wave featuringdepth and separation, created the desired soft-rebel effect.
At Viktor & Rolf, beach fringe was the look du jour.“We thought of the Forties ﬁlm star very dressed up,but on the beach,” said Viktor Horsting backstage at theshow. The multilayered and extreme textured fringe,executed with a precise and controlled styling, conjured abeachy yet elegant hairdo. Within this coastal bohemiansensibility, a subliminal longer-hair trend appeared.John Varvatos executed the look to perfection with a softromantic rocker attitude that felt elegant and fresh whilemaintaining a masculine street credibility.
On the slick side landed designers such as DuckieBrown and Emporio Armani. “We wanted to exerciserestraint and control by having a superclean slick-hair lookthat showed the minimalism and modernism directionof the spring collection,” said Duckie Brown designersSteven Cox and Daniel Silver, when asked about thehair inspiration for the show. They described it this way:“A pure thing, tight to the scalp and swept off the faceto show the models’ angular features.” Their slick styleincluded a dramatic classic part that complemented thedesigners’ experimentation with volume and proportions.
Ann Demeulemeester and Emporio Armani displayedthe most severe slick, glossy styles, channeling edgymilitary inﬂuences for their shows. Demeulemeester’sobsession with pulchritude led to a show of lean andspotless uniform-inspired silhouettes in which theextreme coiffed hair emphasized the overall regimented,minimalistic collection. At Emporio, Armani spicedthings up with a display of risqué black leather militaryattire that, together with blue eye shadow and drasticgelled-back hair, made for quite a spectacle.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast