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Designers weren’t the only creative types making news during the spring 2011 fashion shows in New York. With inspirations ranging from sylvan nymphs to Seventies disco heroines, hairstylists and makeup artists unleashed a slew of imaginative ideas, eschewing the city’s traditional take on natural beauty and ushering in a new age of inventiveness.
Bold, bright colors applied in monochromatic swaths made a strong showing at the spring shows. At Oscar de la Renta, makeup artist Gucci Westman used emerald green and cobalt blue eye shadows to amplify the modern-day-princess theme, while at Altuzarra, swaths of color brushed on the hair gave a raw edge to the designer’s sharp tailoring.
Back In Style
This season, the view going was as key as the view coming for many hairstylists. At Carolina Herrera, Orlando Pita was inspired by the designer’s Korean theme, creating intricate styles accessorized with custom-made “hair-barrettes” that matched the model’s hair color. Meanwhile, at Jason Wu, Odile Gilbert braided chiffon scraps left over from the collection to infuse sleek Seventies chignons with a soft feel.
Playful and fun, the topknot made multiple appearances this season. Stylist Dai Michishita was inspired by Jerry Hall at Studio 54 for the tousled version he created at Rebecca Taylor, while at Adam, the interest up above was a natural complement to the collection’s charming vibe.
Joining the Guild
Inspired in part by the California gold rush of 1849, makeup artist James Kaliardos used gold on each feature at Rodarte—including an opaque lip—for a modern take on metallics. On the subtle side, Diane Kendal’s golden-highlighted cheeks at Thakoon looked as if they “glowed from within,” while Charlotte Tilbury at Donna Karan used Thirties sepia photos as inspiration for the models’ luminous looks.
Red, Hot and Everywhere
A red lip is a perennial style staple, but this season the color migrated to other areas of the face—and even the hair. At Carolina Herrera, models sported brick red eye shadow, as did some at L’Wren Scott, where makeup artist Aaron de Mey rimmed the eyes with a bright paprika, which hairstylist Odile Gilbert then appropriated to use as matching “hairliner.”
From Jimmy Paul’s Sixties-inspired updos at Vera Wang to Guido Palau’s artfully mussed ponytails at Calvin Klein to Orlando Pita’s chic beach vibe at Michael Kors, hairstylists used a dry, matte texture to infuse classic styles with a hipster edge.
Girls Love Curls
Guido Palau’s exuberant Seventiesinspired styles at Marc Jacobs had a halo effect on the rest of fashion week. From tight pin curls to Farrah Fawcettesque waves and ringlets to an all-out frizz fest, curly hair was New York’s freshest style statement.