Makeup artist James Kaliardos, working for MAC Cosmetics, channeled what he called the “unconventional beauty” of Coco Chanel, circa 1930, when a smoldering, smoky eye was radical. James applied a deep gray shadow to the lid, beginning at the center just over the lashes and covering the entire lid up into the eye socket. Using a full brush, he liberally applied the same shade underneath the eye, as he remarked, “You can’t be afraid.”
“It’s not black, so you can put it on and on and on,” he said, deepening the shadow on one model’s finished face. To widen the appearance of the eye, he dabbed a touch of beige into the inside lid. He then applied pink blush with the working name SoHo [the final name has yet to be decided] high on the cheek bones. He finished with mascara and a berry lip stain.
Hairstylist Kevin Ryan of RSession Tools amplified the glamour-with-an-edge theme with full, imperfect hair. He began by applying both Aveda Volumizing Tonic and Bumble and bumble Surf Spray to dry hair, working it through with his fingers and a blow-dryer. He then curled much of the hair using the double-barreled RSession Nulawaver, pinned the curls [time permitting, he said] and then let the waves hang long. Much of the hair was to be tucked in collars and under hats for the show, Ryan acknowledged, but said, “It’s always good to practice.”