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Helena Rubinstein: Face Time

PARIS — Helena Rubinstein’s battle against wrinkles continues. With its new treatment line called Expressionist with B-Neutrox, thirtysomethings — a demographic until now not addressed by the L’Oréal-owned brand in the...

PARIS — Helena Rubinstein’s battle against wrinkles continues. With its new treatment line called Expressionist with B-Neutrox, thirtysomethings — a demographic until now not addressed by the L’Oréal-owned brand in the antiwrinkle category — are targeted.

“This is the first time we are specifically addressing wrinkles caused by facial expressions,” which start appearing in a person’s 30s, explained Philippe Villemus, international general manager for the brand, of Helena Rubinstein’s biggest launch next year, which will take place globally in March.

While company executives refused to divulge numbers, industry sources estimate the three-item Expressionist line could generate retail sales worldwide of $48 million in the first 12 months.

For the past decade, Helena Rubinstein has been working on Expressionist’s formula, which is meant to help relieve skin’s muscular contractions, or dermal microtensions, involved in the onset of facial-expression wrinkles. Muscular contractions induce the “hyper contraction” of fibroblasts — cells in the dermis that produce components such as collagen and elastin. Fibroblasts are comprised of a “cytoskeleton,” which contracts due to the presence of calcium.

Helena Rubinstein says it created B-Neutrox, a combination of magnesium gluconate and a hexapeptide, which limits the entry of calcium into the fibroblasts. The firm also said with Expressionist, it focused on stimulating cell metabolism and reinforcing skin elasticity. The product’s formula therefore includes an “energizing” yeast extract, said to stimulate cell vitality and relaunch cellular metabolic functions, and an algae extract, meant to improve the quality of elastic tissue.

The cream’s fragrance, which includes floral and fruity black currant notes, was created to be relaxing. And the Expressionist products also come with directions for a suggested application technique to optimize the product’s benefits.

The Expressionist line, which will be accompanied by a yet-to-be-unveiled advertising campaign, includes a 30-ml. jar of Expressionist cream, for $52.95; a 50-ml. jar, for $65.10, and a 30-ml. bottle of Expressionist serum, with an increased concentration of B-Neutrox, for $69.

All dollar figures were converted from the euro at current exchange rates and prices are for Europe.

Expressionist joins the Helena Rubinstein portfolio that includes Urban Active, meant to be a preventative-aging treatment; Collagenist, an antiwrinkle and firming product; Power A, to smooth deep wrinkles; Face Sculptor, for a “lifting” effect, and Prodigy, billed to regenerate, moisturize and firm skin while making it uniform and bright.

Expressionist will also join Lancôme’s Resolution skin care product in the fight against fine lines and wrinkles resulting from facial expressions. That L’Oréal-owned brand’s product, targeting 35- to 45-year-olds, will be launched this spring, as reported.