These days, as a new aesthetic takes hold in Hollywood, it’s gettingharder to tell.
Call it the dawn of a deﬂationary era, a time in which the pushed,plumped, plucked and pulled Hollywood ideal is yielding to something approachinghuman. Exaggerated lips, rigid foreheads, jumbo breasts and higher-than-highcheekbones are becoming jarring relics of a desperate battle against aging. (Of course,they can still be examined for historical purposes on reality-television shows like The RealHousewives of Beverly Hills.)
The new beauty ideal is easy, fresh and relatable. The prototype could be a mash-up ofJennifer Aniston, Kate Hudson, Blake Lively, Paula Patton and Zoe Saldana, all of whomare gorgeous, but none of whom conform to Hollywood’s cookie-cutter beauty ideal.Neither Aniston nor Lively have perky button noses. Hudson’s, Aniston’s and Saldana’schests are appropriately sized for their athletic builds. All have laugh lines when they smile.
“There is a greater acceptance of women and aging, and a feeling that women can bebeautiful without doing all of that,” says Sarah Finn, casting director for TRON: Legacy,Wall Street: Money Never Sleeps and Thor, discussing Botox, ﬁ llers, surgery and the like.“Female-driven movies like The Kids Are All Right are a good example. The movie wastrying to be real and authentic, and both Julianne [Moore] and Annette [Bening] lookedlike real people.”
But don’t be fooled. Screen-worthy beauty is more than ever the craft of plastic surgeons,dermatologists, aestheticians, dentists, makeup artists and hairstylists. It’s just that thecraft is changing. The new beauty benchmark requires aesthetics professionals to have adeft touch and keen eye. Unlike some reality stars whose anatomy appears purchased off theassembly line, actresses and actors of substance don’t want to look like they’ve popped out ofa plastic mold. They want to retain their individuality and come across as themselves, but inthe best possible state, so that they look immune to the worst effects of aging.
“It is a beauty business,” says April Webster, casting director for the upcoming movieMission Impossible: Ghost Protocol as well as the television programs Fringe, CriminalMinds and Lost, of Hollywood. “It’s unfortunate, but it is understandable that a lotof people want to look younger. We don’t venerate age and experience. We venerateyouthfulness and attractiveness, especially when we are doing ﬁlms and television shows.”
“Celebrities want to portray themselves as natural, so they claim that they don’t haveplastic surgery. The fact is that they do,” agrees plastic surgeon Renato Calabria. “Plasticsurgery has a bad rap because you see some celebrities that have overdone it.”
Plausible deniability—or the art of ﬁne-tuning in the range of the geneticallyprobable—is the objective. Moderation is critical to success today, a stark contrast to theage of overload that took off when Botox ﬁrst promised wrinkle-free ambitions in theNineties and early 2000s, and injectable ﬁllers such as Restylane, Juvederm, Sculptra,Radiesse and Arteﬁll further inﬂamed the intemperate mood. “Anything can be done toexcess,” says plastic surgeon Norman Leaf. “It is all a matter of balance and taste, and thatis hard to acquire and learn.”
In particular, ﬁller was responsible for absurdly swollen faces and bodies. Plasticsurgeon Sherrell Aston says too much caused lower eyelids that sometimes appeared grayand lumpy, ropy nasal labial folds and chipmunk cheeks. “The pendulum is starting toswing,” he says. “We are seeing more and more people who are coming in now who havetried the ﬁller route and realize that they have spent the cost of two facelifts, and manytimes they look worse or certainly no better than they did before the ﬁrst ﬁller.”
In fact, a good old-fashioned facelift is now preferred. New techniques are beingused to prevent the tightly pulled, windswept look of yore. Plastic surgeon Daniel Ronelperforms what he calls a modern facelift, in which he pulls the skin straight up rather thanat a diagonal. “It is a more natural look because it puts things where they were before, andthe healing is easier because that’s where the skin came from,” he says, adding, “It avoidsthe ugly incision behind the ear that the traditional facelift surgery has.”
There'll be no rest for those headed to Europe for men's, as Paris just closed the gap with Milan. According to a provisional calendar released by the Chambre Syndicale, Paris Men's Week will now open a day earlier on January 16. See new highlights on the official lineup on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
BREAKING: Jonathan Saunders is leaving @DVF. The designer has resigned from his position as chief creative officer of Diane von Furstenberg, the company said in a statement on Friday. At the time of his hire, von Furstenberg said Saunders’ arrival symbolized and facilitated her stepping back from the day-to-day duties that occupy the work of a full-time creative director. The British designer joined DVF in May 2016 and was in charge of all product categories. #wwdnews
For @versace_official’s spring ad campaign, the brand emphasized the archival prints from the spring tribute collection dedicated to the late Gianni Versace. Closing out the show were five of Gianni’s favorite models: Cindy, Naomi, Carla, Helena, and Claudia. Bowing on December 18, the new campaign is yet another tribute to supermodel-dom as the images by Steven Meisel are fronted by @iamnaomicampbell, @cturlington, @gisele and more. #wwdfashion
Four-time Oscar-nominated actress Annette Bening has been waiting 20 years to play Gloria Graham in "Film Stars Don't Die in Liverpool," which will be released on December 29. The movie about Graham – a Hollywood star known for her controversial relationship with a younger Englishman named Peter Turner – is based off a memoir Turned wrote. "She felt vulnerable to him, because she loved him, she really did love him. And anyone that we really truly are in love with, we re vulnerable to in a very deep way," said Bening. Read our full interview with the modern icon of an actress on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @ninebagatelles; Styled by @cristinaehrlich)
The crisp white button down: a staple that can be dressed up or down and accessorized throughout the decades. Here, on a Art Basel-goer in 2017 on the left and on the iconic Audrey Hepburn in “Roman Holiday” in 1953 on the right. #tbt #wwdfashion (📷: Andrew Morales)
Known for her work with @victoriassecret, 25-year-old model @georgiafowler is raising her profile in Hollywood. Fowler stars in @vincecamuto’s holiday campaign, which launched in partnership with “Pitch Perfect 3.” “Almost every shoot with Vince Camuto, I’ve had to face a fear…It was definitely a challenge. I’m so grateful for it, though. I’ve always wanted to be a pop star, so that was the perfect chance,” Fowler said. Head to WWD.com to read about Fowler’s experience modeling, including at the #VSFashionShow, and her relationship with Nick Jonas. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
EXCLUSIVE: Huda Kattan just became the first beauty influencer to land a major beauty deal. Kattan's business, @hudabeauty, has received a minority investment from private equity firm TSG Consumer Partners. The brand, which industry sources say is on track to do $200 million in retail sales for 2017, will receive support on product, retail and geographic expansion through the deal. Get all the details on the deal and read @_a_collins' interview with Kattan on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Peruvian model @juanaburga_official – who is known for walking the runways of @rodarte, @viviennewestwood and @torybuch – is making the move to the big screen with drama “Los Últimos.” The film premiered in Argentina in November and arrives in the U.S. and Europe in 2018. On making the switch from modeling to acting, Burga told WWD: “It’s a completely different thing – a lot of people think it’s similar or try to connect things, especially like getting used to the camera or being looked at all the time or playing these different characrers, but film is a completely different story.” #wwdeye (📷: @jgreenery)
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)