These days, as a new aesthetic takes hold in Hollywood, it’s gettingharder to tell.
Call it the dawn of a deﬂationary era, a time in which the pushed,plumped, plucked and pulled Hollywood ideal is yielding to something approachinghuman. Exaggerated lips, rigid foreheads, jumbo breasts and higher-than-highcheekbones are becoming jarring relics of a desperate battle against aging. (Of course,they can still be examined for historical purposes on reality-television shows like The RealHousewives of Beverly Hills.)
The new beauty ideal is easy, fresh and relatable. The prototype could be a mash-up ofJennifer Aniston, Kate Hudson, Blake Lively, Paula Patton and Zoe Saldana, all of whomare gorgeous, but none of whom conform to Hollywood’s cookie-cutter beauty ideal.Neither Aniston nor Lively have perky button noses. Hudson’s, Aniston’s and Saldana’schests are appropriately sized for their athletic builds. All have laugh lines when they smile.
“There is a greater acceptance of women and aging, and a feeling that women can bebeautiful without doing all of that,” says Sarah Finn, casting director for TRON: Legacy,Wall Street: Money Never Sleeps and Thor, discussing Botox, ﬁ llers, surgery and the like.“Female-driven movies like The Kids Are All Right are a good example. The movie wastrying to be real and authentic, and both Julianne [Moore] and Annette [Bening] lookedlike real people.”
But don’t be fooled. Screen-worthy beauty is more than ever the craft of plastic surgeons,dermatologists, aestheticians, dentists, makeup artists and hairstylists. It’s just that thecraft is changing. The new beauty benchmark requires aesthetics professionals to have adeft touch and keen eye. Unlike some reality stars whose anatomy appears purchased off theassembly line, actresses and actors of substance don’t want to look like they’ve popped out ofa plastic mold. They want to retain their individuality and come across as themselves, but inthe best possible state, so that they look immune to the worst effects of aging.
“It is a beauty business,” says April Webster, casting director for the upcoming movieMission Impossible: Ghost Protocol as well as the television programs Fringe, CriminalMinds and Lost, of Hollywood. “It’s unfortunate, but it is understandable that a lotof people want to look younger. We don’t venerate age and experience. We venerateyouthfulness and attractiveness, especially when we are doing ﬁlms and television shows.”
“Celebrities want to portray themselves as natural, so they claim that they don’t haveplastic surgery. The fact is that they do,” agrees plastic surgeon Renato Calabria. “Plasticsurgery has a bad rap because you see some celebrities that have overdone it.”
Plausible deniability—or the art of ﬁne-tuning in the range of the geneticallyprobable—is the objective. Moderation is critical to success today, a stark contrast to theage of overload that took off when Botox ﬁrst promised wrinkle-free ambitions in theNineties and early 2000s, and injectable ﬁllers such as Restylane, Juvederm, Sculptra,Radiesse and Arteﬁll further inﬂamed the intemperate mood. “Anything can be done toexcess,” says plastic surgeon Norman Leaf. “It is all a matter of balance and taste, and thatis hard to acquire and learn.”
In particular, ﬁller was responsible for absurdly swollen faces and bodies. Plasticsurgeon Sherrell Aston says too much caused lower eyelids that sometimes appeared grayand lumpy, ropy nasal labial folds and chipmunk cheeks. “The pendulum is starting toswing,” he says. “We are seeing more and more people who are coming in now who havetried the ﬁller route and realize that they have spent the cost of two facelifts, and manytimes they look worse or certainly no better than they did before the ﬁrst ﬁller.”
In fact, a good old-fashioned facelift is now preferred. New techniques are beingused to prevent the tightly pulled, windswept look of yore. Plastic surgeon Daniel Ronelperforms what he calls a modern facelift, in which he pulls the skin straight up rather thanat a diagonal. “It is a more natural look because it puts things where they were before, andthe healing is easier because that’s where the skin came from,” he says, adding, “It avoidsthe ugly incision behind the ear that the traditional facelift surgery has.”
Donatella Versace will receive the International Award at the 2018 @cfda awards, which were announced tonight. Tap link in bio for a list of all the nominees and honorees. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @rahirezvanistudio )
The 2018 @cfda Awards nominees are out! @virgilabloh for @off____white for is nominated for Womenswear Designer of the Year. Tap link in bio for all the nominees. #wwdnews #wwdfashion ( 📷: @simonelezzi)
@chanelofficial is suing high-end vintage retailer @whatgoesaroundnyc for trademark infringement, a move that could cost the retailer millions. The French fashion house claims that it’s not only unintentionally sold counterfeit goods on occasion, but that it’s “gone out of its way to create an association with Chanel,” which does not exist. Read Chanel’s statement on WWD.com #wwdnews (@aitorrosasphoto)
Exclusive: Guillaume Henry has left @ninaricci, the fashion house said on Thursday. “After three years of mutually gratifying creative collaboration, Nina Ricci and Guillaume Henry have together decided that the designer will depart the house after the presentation of the fall-winter 2018-19 collection,” Ricci said in a statement. Get all the details on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
“When Bella enters a room all heads turn,” said @peterphilipsmakeup, creative and image director for @diormakeup. Last night, the two celebrated the product launch of Dior’s Lacquer Plump in Los Angeles with other celebs like @parisjackson, @winnieharlow and more. Head to WWD.com to see the rest of the photos from the night (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
“These shirts are an art form, it’s about getting the message out to as many people as you can. It breaks down the pretentiousness of the art gallery,” says Kumasi Sadiki, cofounder of @ebayontheblock, a store that sells merchandise by New York artists who are shifting their attention to clothes as a wearable medium. Pictured here is a design by artist @joegarvey_, one of the first to spearhead this movement. Head to WWD.com to read @mistywhitesidell full story on how their designs have become merch for the underground elite #wwdfashion
@netaporter is dedicating a part of its website – called the Fine Jewelry and Watch Destination – to highlight its high-end jewelry. The hub will feature products on the site, as well as incorporate styling advice and educational content about high-priced jewelry items. Get more details on WWD.com. #wwdaccessories
For “The Cher Show,” an upcoming musical based on @cher’s life and career, @bobmackie is once again collaborating with the singer in designing the costumes. For decades, Mackie has designed glitzy stage costumes and red carpet looks for the 71-year-old Grammy winner. Pictured here is a sketch of some of the pieces in the wardrobe of the musical, which is set to debut in Chicago on June 12 before making its way to Broadway #wwdeye