These days, as a new aesthetic takes hold in Hollywood, it’s gettingharder to tell.
Call it the dawn of a deﬂationary era, a time in which the pushed,plumped, plucked and pulled Hollywood ideal is yielding to something approachinghuman. Exaggerated lips, rigid foreheads, jumbo breasts and higher-than-highcheekbones are becoming jarring relics of a desperate battle against aging. (Of course,they can still be examined for historical purposes on reality-television shows like The RealHousewives of Beverly Hills.)
The new beauty ideal is easy, fresh and relatable. The prototype could be a mash-up ofJennifer Aniston, Kate Hudson, Blake Lively, Paula Patton and Zoe Saldana, all of whomare gorgeous, but none of whom conform to Hollywood’s cookie-cutter beauty ideal.Neither Aniston nor Lively have perky button noses. Hudson’s, Aniston’s and Saldana’schests are appropriately sized for their athletic builds. All have laugh lines when they smile.
“There is a greater acceptance of women and aging, and a feeling that women can bebeautiful without doing all of that,” says Sarah Finn, casting director for TRON: Legacy,Wall Street: Money Never Sleeps and Thor, discussing Botox, ﬁ llers, surgery and the like.“Female-driven movies like The Kids Are All Right are a good example. The movie wastrying to be real and authentic, and both Julianne [Moore] and Annette [Bening] lookedlike real people.”
But don’t be fooled. Screen-worthy beauty is more than ever the craft of plastic surgeons,dermatologists, aestheticians, dentists, makeup artists and hairstylists. It’s just that thecraft is changing. The new beauty benchmark requires aesthetics professionals to have adeft touch and keen eye. Unlike some reality stars whose anatomy appears purchased off theassembly line, actresses and actors of substance don’t want to look like they’ve popped out ofa plastic mold. They want to retain their individuality and come across as themselves, but inthe best possible state, so that they look immune to the worst effects of aging.
“It is a beauty business,” says April Webster, casting director for the upcoming movieMission Impossible: Ghost Protocol as well as the television programs Fringe, CriminalMinds and Lost, of Hollywood. “It’s unfortunate, but it is understandable that a lotof people want to look younger. We don’t venerate age and experience. We venerateyouthfulness and attractiveness, especially when we are doing ﬁlms and television shows.”
“Celebrities want to portray themselves as natural, so they claim that they don’t haveplastic surgery. The fact is that they do,” agrees plastic surgeon Renato Calabria. “Plasticsurgery has a bad rap because you see some celebrities that have overdone it.”
Plausible deniability—or the art of ﬁne-tuning in the range of the geneticallyprobable—is the objective. Moderation is critical to success today, a stark contrast to theage of overload that took off when Botox ﬁrst promised wrinkle-free ambitions in theNineties and early 2000s, and injectable ﬁllers such as Restylane, Juvederm, Sculptra,Radiesse and Arteﬁll further inﬂamed the intemperate mood. “Anything can be done toexcess,” says plastic surgeon Norman Leaf. “It is all a matter of balance and taste, and thatis hard to acquire and learn.”
In particular, ﬁller was responsible for absurdly swollen faces and bodies. Plasticsurgeon Sherrell Aston says too much caused lower eyelids that sometimes appeared grayand lumpy, ropy nasal labial folds and chipmunk cheeks. “The pendulum is starting toswing,” he says. “We are seeing more and more people who are coming in now who havetried the ﬁller route and realize that they have spent the cost of two facelifts, and manytimes they look worse or certainly no better than they did before the ﬁrst ﬁller.”
In fact, a good old-fashioned facelift is now preferred. New techniques are beingused to prevent the tightly pulled, windswept look of yore. Plastic surgeon Daniel Ronelperforms what he calls a modern facelift, in which he pulls the skin straight up rather thanat a diagonal. “It is a more natural look because it puts things where they were before, andthe healing is easier because that’s where the skin came from,” he says, adding, “It avoidsthe ugly incision behind the ear that the traditional facelift surgery has.”
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews