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Iceberg Hoping For Warm Reception

Italian fashion house Iceberg has christened the fragrance licensing deal it signed in late 2006 with Selective Beauty with a new signature women's scent.

MILAN — Italian fashion house Iceberg has christened the fragrance licensing deal it signed in late 2006 with Selective Beauty with a new signature women’s scent.

Iceberg’s newest fragrance is poised for a worldwide rollout in March, following exclusive distribution in the fashion brand’s boutiques that started in November. Selective plans to expand distribution of the scent to 8,000 doors by the end of 2008, according to David Melki, managing director of Selective Beauty’s prestige division.

The fragrance will eventually launch in the U.S. and France in a so-called second-tier distribution plan, slated for 2009.

Industry sources estimate the scent could generate 13 million euros, or $19.1 million at current exchange, in first-year retail sales.

“With this launch, we intend to put Iceberg in selective distribution, which is the right place for the brand,” said Melki. “We think this new product expresses the distinctive, iconic and ironic, upscale values of the brand and we will focus on visibility at point of sale to express these values and attract consumers.”

Paolo Gerani, chief executive officer of Gilmar, which owns the Iceberg brand, collaborated with fragrance supplier Givaudan, specifically perfumer Natalie Gracia-Cetto, to compose the fragrance. Gerani said he threw himself into every aspect of the scent’s creation.

“Every detail was important,” said Gerani. “I wanted to make the fragrance reflect the style of the fashion house, its sporty couture roots. This project has made the two coherent.”

The scent’s rectangular-shaped, amber-hued flacon — with a gold square stopper etched with an “I” — was conceived by Gerani to resemble a skyscraper. Wrap-printed onto the bottle are the notes from the scent’s olfactory structure.

“I wanted a bottle that could talk,” said Gerani, who was inspired to finesse the flacon’s lettering by fonts used by Andy Warhol and American artist Jack Pierson. “It’s not easy explaining how I arrived at this design after a year of working on it. It’s difficult enough describing a dress,” joked Gerani.

“We wanted the scent to be not something too niche, but nothing too commercial, so that’s why it was important to have a scent that has a soft, warm finish,” Gerani added.

Gracia-Cetto described the scent as a modern floral-gourmand, because of its food-related notes. Opening with bergamot, coriander, pear and pink pepper, the perfume’s heart notes include pistachio ice cream, peony, violet and mimosa and base notes of patchouli, vanilla, suede leather and musk.

“The pistachio ice-cream accord, made with a blend of almond and orange flower, is the rock ‘n’ roll note,” said Gracia-Cetto. “It gives the scent funk.”

Photographers Fabrizio Coppi and Lucilla Barbieri shot a print advertising campaign for the Iceberg fragrance, which features multiple images of the flacon juxtaposed together. Melki said Selective Beauty would focus its advertising investment in markets where the fashion brand is strong, including Italy and Russia.

The Iceberg fragrance will be sold in three eau de parfum sizes: 30 ml. for 36 euros, or $52.90; 50 ml. for 49 euros, or $71.98, and 100 ml. for 71 euros, or $104.30.

Selective Beauty and Iceberg are already working on a follow-up men’s scent for the brand to be launched in July.