BOLOGNA, Italy — As in years past, Cosmoprof has offered a cross-section of innovative brands, each with a specific story to tell.
Here is a sampling from the current fair.
DAVINES AND COMFORT ZONE
This year, Davines and Comfort Zone founder and president Davide Bollati has one goal: “to keep up the momentum of the group,” which saw a 14 percent increase in turnover last year, hitting 70 million euros, or about $97 million at current exchange.
Top markets for the Davines hair-care line include the U.S., Italy, France, Canada and the U.K., and key markets for the Comfort Zone skin-care brand are Italy, the U.K., Russia and China. Bollati said he was more focused on boosting business in areas where the brands were already present than in scouting out new territory for expansion, although he expressed interest in Vietnam and Chile for Davines.
Comfort Zone has been building up its body range, following the success of its Skin Regimen face products, and is rolling out a new anticellulite line. “In Italy, it’s a top product category,” noted Bollati.
Anisa International founder and president Anisa Telwar said she had returned to Cosmoprof after many years for “innovation and inspiration.”
“It’s worth it to be here,” she said. “Cosmoprof is valuable, you get to experience many countries.”
The Atlanta-based entrepreneur was showing an assortment of new brushes shaped for the natural motions of users on cheeks, eyes and lips: the Complexion, Glider and Contour collections. She also spoke of developing more synthetic fiber brushes, which have the properties of natural hair but pick up powder better. “People are not yet used to the synthetic fiber feel, but we want to change that,” Telwar said.
Outside the brush category, her company is creating new DIY nail tools — such as a “landing pad” people can use to rest their fingers on while applying nail polish — and other beauty accessories, like a latex-free, hydrophilic foam back sponge that works well on sensitive skin.
At the fair for the second time, Junaid Perfumes, a mid- to- premium-tier perfume and fragrant oil brand founded in the Kingdom of Bahrain in 1910, was on the lookout for distributors and franchise partners in the European Union and Southeast Asia.
Already well-placed throughout the Middle East, where business is “booming,” Junaid Perfumes aims to expand, using its ornate, decorative bottle designs and packaging as one selling point, said Mansoor Shah, head of business development. He highlighted the Essence of Arabia line, composed of six unisex fragrances called Rose, Vanilla, Patchouli, Musk, Fusion and Oud.
Prices for Junaid Perfume items range from 25 euros, or about $34.60, to 250 euros, or $346, depending on the product category: The company offers fragrances in spray, oil, gel and solid form.
While China is not typically a top market for the industry, Junaid Perfumes “will soon export a small amount to northern China,” where there is a significant Muslim population appreciative of fragrances, Shah said.
L’Erbolario, a natural Italian beauty maker, was showcasing two lines that are due out at the end of May. One is a collection for babies, whose packaging has been reworked and its product formulation updated to include completely natural and vegetal oils, according to Daniela Villa, cofounder and technical director of the company.
Also to be launched is a fragranced bath line with a fresh scent and products made with chamomile and daisies.
L’Erbolario’s portfolio is made of approximately 600 stockkeeping units, and each year the company introduces about 40 new products. Fragranced bath lines and facial skin-care products make up the firm’s core business.
“L’Erbolario closed 2013 with a positive trend,” said Villa.
Pattrena bills itself as the first Thai beauty brand dedicated to export, according to George Ng, international marketing director at its parent company, Giffrine Skyline Laboratory and Health Care Co. Ltd. He explained the label’s product concept fuses the tradition of Thai massage with European spa culture.
Its products, which include oils, toiletries, scrubs and foot care, are sold mainly in spa salons. The items include some historically Thai ingredients, such as green lime, ginger and lemongrass.
“We try to mix some signature Thai ingredients to differentiate,” said Ng.
Certain items, like the essential oils and the massage oils, are 100 percent natural.
At Cosmoprof, Giffrine Skyline Laboratory, which also produces the Giffrine beauty brand, was showcasing its new Oriental Thai Spa series.
The company’s activity includes a private-label business, as well. All of the products from the firm have been registered in the EU since the beginning of 2013.
“This is a very big step for us,” said Ng, who added his company was at the fair to find European distributors, especially in Italy, France and Eastern Europe.
THE INSTITUTO CERTIFICAZIONE ETICA E AMBIENTALE
The Instituto Certificazione Etica e Ambientale was at Cosmoprof to “inform people from the conventional market,” said Rosalinda Nardi, an EcoBioCosmetics inspection technician at the organic certification organization. “We are here to meet people from new countries like Korea.”
She added markets such as Brazil and Turkey were also of particular interest.
Nardi said ICEA had tried to bring to Cosmoprof a new brand called Rio Terà dei Pensieri.
“They could not be here for a particular reason,” she said, explaining the people who make the label’s skin-care products are in a women’s prison outside Venice. On a small plot of land there, they grow certified organic plants, such as rosemary and thyme, that are used in the cosmetics.
“We tried to [get them here], but in the end we were not successful,” explained Nardi.
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)