BOLOGNA, Italy — As in years past, Cosmoprof has offered a cross-section of innovative brands, each with a specific story to tell.
Here is a sampling from the current fair.
DAVINES AND COMFORT ZONE
This year, Davines and Comfort Zone founder and president Davide Bollati has one goal: “to keep up the momentum of the group,” which saw a 14 percent increase in turnover last year, hitting 70 million euros, or about $97 million at current exchange.
Top markets for the Davines hair-care line include the U.S., Italy, France, Canada and the U.K., and key markets for the Comfort Zone skin-care brand are Italy, the U.K., Russia and China. Bollati said he was more focused on boosting business in areas where the brands were already present than in scouting out new territory for expansion, although he expressed interest in Vietnam and Chile for Davines.
Comfort Zone has been building up its body range, following the success of its Skin Regimen face products, and is rolling out a new anticellulite line. “In Italy, it’s a top product category,” noted Bollati.
Anisa International founder and president Anisa Telwar said she had returned to Cosmoprof after many years for “innovation and inspiration.”
“It’s worth it to be here,” she said. “Cosmoprof is valuable, you get to experience many countries.”
The Atlanta-based entrepreneur was showing an assortment of new brushes shaped for the natural motions of users on cheeks, eyes and lips: the Complexion, Glider and Contour collections. She also spoke of developing more synthetic fiber brushes, which have the properties of natural hair but pick up powder better. “People are not yet used to the synthetic fiber feel, but we want to change that,” Telwar said.
Outside the brush category, her company is creating new DIY nail tools — such as a “landing pad” people can use to rest their fingers on while applying nail polish — and other beauty accessories, like a latex-free, hydrophilic foam back sponge that works well on sensitive skin.
At the fair for the second time, Junaid Perfumes, a mid- to- premium-tier perfume and fragrant oil brand founded in the Kingdom of Bahrain in 1910, was on the lookout for distributors and franchise partners in the European Union and Southeast Asia.
Already well-placed throughout the Middle East, where business is “booming,” Junaid Perfumes aims to expand, using its ornate, decorative bottle designs and packaging as one selling point, said Mansoor Shah, head of business development. He highlighted the Essence of Arabia line, composed of six unisex fragrances called Rose, Vanilla, Patchouli, Musk, Fusion and Oud.
Prices for Junaid Perfume items range from 25 euros, or about $34.60, to 250 euros, or $346, depending on the product category: The company offers fragrances in spray, oil, gel and solid form.
While China is not typically a top market for the industry, Junaid Perfumes “will soon export a small amount to northern China,” where there is a significant Muslim population appreciative of fragrances, Shah said.
L’Erbolario, a natural Italian beauty maker, was showcasing two lines that are due out at the end of May. One is a collection for babies, whose packaging has been reworked and its product formulation updated to include completely natural and vegetal oils, according to Daniela Villa, cofounder and technical director of the company.
Also to be launched is a fragranced bath line with a fresh scent and products made with chamomile and daisies.
L’Erbolario’s portfolio is made of approximately 600 stockkeeping units, and each year the company introduces about 40 new products. Fragranced bath lines and facial skin-care products make up the firm’s core business.
“L’Erbolario closed 2013 with a positive trend,” said Villa.
Pattrena bills itself as the first Thai beauty brand dedicated to export, according to George Ng, international marketing director at its parent company, Giffrine Skyline Laboratory and Health Care Co. Ltd. He explained the label’s product concept fuses the tradition of Thai massage with European spa culture.
Its products, which include oils, toiletries, scrubs and foot care, are sold mainly in spa salons. The items include some historically Thai ingredients, such as green lime, ginger and lemongrass.
“We try to mix some signature Thai ingredients to differentiate,” said Ng.
Certain items, like the essential oils and the massage oils, are 100 percent natural.
At Cosmoprof, Giffrine Skyline Laboratory, which also produces the Giffrine beauty brand, was showcasing its new Oriental Thai Spa series.
The company’s activity includes a private-label business, as well. All of the products from the firm have been registered in the EU since the beginning of 2013.
“This is a very big step for us,” said Ng, who added his company was at the fair to find European distributors, especially in Italy, France and Eastern Europe.
THE INSTITUTO CERTIFICAZIONE ETICA E AMBIENTALE
The Instituto Certificazione Etica e Ambientale was at Cosmoprof to “inform people from the conventional market,” said Rosalinda Nardi, an EcoBioCosmetics inspection technician at the organic certification organization. “We are here to meet people from new countries like Korea.”
She added markets such as Brazil and Turkey were also of particular interest.
Nardi said ICEA had tried to bring to Cosmoprof a new brand called Rio Terà dei Pensieri.
“They could not be here for a particular reason,” she said, explaining the people who make the label’s skin-care products are in a women’s prison outside Venice. On a small plot of land there, they grow certified organic plants, such as rosemary and thyme, that are used in the cosmetics.
“We tried to [get them here], but in the end we were not successful,” explained Nardi.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty