BOLOGNA, Italy — As in years past, Cosmoprof has offered a cross-section of innovative brands, each with a specific story to tell.
Here is a sampling from the current fair.
DAVINES AND COMFORT ZONE
This year, Davines and Comfort Zone founder and president Davide Bollati has one goal: “to keep up the momentum of the group,” which saw a 14 percent increase in turnover last year, hitting 70 million euros, or about $97 million at current exchange.
Top markets for the Davines hair-care line include the U.S., Italy, France, Canada and the U.K., and key markets for the Comfort Zone skin-care brand are Italy, the U.K., Russia and China. Bollati said he was more focused on boosting business in areas where the brands were already present than in scouting out new territory for expansion, although he expressed interest in Vietnam and Chile for Davines.
Comfort Zone has been building up its body range, following the success of its Skin Regimen face products, and is rolling out a new anticellulite line. “In Italy, it’s a top product category,” noted Bollati.
Anisa International founder and president Anisa Telwar said she had returned to Cosmoprof after many years for “innovation and inspiration.”
“It’s worth it to be here,” she said. “Cosmoprof is valuable, you get to experience many countries.”
The Atlanta-based entrepreneur was showing an assortment of new brushes shaped for the natural motions of users on cheeks, eyes and lips: the Complexion, Glider and Contour collections. She also spoke of developing more synthetic fiber brushes, which have the properties of natural hair but pick up powder better. “People are not yet used to the synthetic fiber feel, but we want to change that,” Telwar said.
Outside the brush category, her company is creating new DIY nail tools — such as a “landing pad” people can use to rest their fingers on while applying nail polish — and other beauty accessories, like a latex-free, hydrophilic foam back sponge that works well on sensitive skin.
At the fair for the second time, Junaid Perfumes, a mid- to- premium-tier perfume and fragrant oil brand founded in the Kingdom of Bahrain in 1910, was on the lookout for distributors and franchise partners in the European Union and Southeast Asia.
Already well-placed throughout the Middle East, where business is “booming,” Junaid Perfumes aims to expand, using its ornate, decorative bottle designs and packaging as one selling point, said Mansoor Shah, head of business development. He highlighted the Essence of Arabia line, composed of six unisex fragrances called Rose, Vanilla, Patchouli, Musk, Fusion and Oud.
Prices for Junaid Perfume items range from 25 euros, or about $34.60, to 250 euros, or $346, depending on the product category: The company offers fragrances in spray, oil, gel and solid form.
While China is not typically a top market for the industry, Junaid Perfumes “will soon export a small amount to northern China,” where there is a significant Muslim population appreciative of fragrances, Shah said.
L’Erbolario, a natural Italian beauty maker, was showcasing two lines that are due out at the end of May. One is a collection for babies, whose packaging has been reworked and its product formulation updated to include completely natural and vegetal oils, according to Daniela Villa, cofounder and technical director of the company.
Also to be launched is a fragranced bath line with a fresh scent and products made with chamomile and daisies.
L’Erbolario’s portfolio is made of approximately 600 stockkeeping units, and each year the company introduces about 40 new products. Fragranced bath lines and facial skin-care products make up the firm’s core business.
“L’Erbolario closed 2013 with a positive trend,” said Villa.
Pattrena bills itself as the first Thai beauty brand dedicated to export, according to George Ng, international marketing director at its parent company, Giffrine Skyline Laboratory and Health Care Co. Ltd. He explained the label’s product concept fuses the tradition of Thai massage with European spa culture.
Its products, which include oils, toiletries, scrubs and foot care, are sold mainly in spa salons. The items include some historically Thai ingredients, such as green lime, ginger and lemongrass.
“We try to mix some signature Thai ingredients to differentiate,” said Ng.
Certain items, like the essential oils and the massage oils, are 100 percent natural.
At Cosmoprof, Giffrine Skyline Laboratory, which also produces the Giffrine beauty brand, was showcasing its new Oriental Thai Spa series.
The company’s activity includes a private-label business, as well. All of the products from the firm have been registered in the EU since the beginning of 2013.
“This is a very big step for us,” said Ng, who added his company was at the fair to find European distributors, especially in Italy, France and Eastern Europe.
THE INSTITUTO CERTIFICAZIONE ETICA E AMBIENTALE
The Instituto Certificazione Etica e Ambientale was at Cosmoprof to “inform people from the conventional market,” said Rosalinda Nardi, an EcoBioCosmetics inspection technician at the organic certification organization. “We are here to meet people from new countries like Korea.”
She added markets such as Brazil and Turkey were also of particular interest.
Nardi said ICEA had tried to bring to Cosmoprof a new brand called Rio Terà dei Pensieri.
“They could not be here for a particular reason,” she said, explaining the people who make the label’s skin-care products are in a women’s prison outside Venice. On a small plot of land there, they grow certified organic plants, such as rosemary and thyme, that are used in the cosmetics.
“We tried to [get them here], but in the end we were not successful,” explained Nardi.
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)
Discovery is collaborating with British pop artist @philipcolbert on a new line of clothing and accessories called Discovery Shark. The collection, which will launch next summer for Shark Week’s 30th anniversary, features a whimsical line of women’s and men’s bomber jackets, sweatshirts, bags and more. #wwdfashion
“I’m always a big champion of a female rapper, and I’m glad to see a new voice that feels unique and authentic that’s coming up, and I think we’re going to see more great things from her,” said @itsjeremyscott about @iamcardib, who performed at @moschino’s Art Basel Miami Beach party last night. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
@janellemonae’s “What’s Your Frequency?” room in @refinery29's #29Rooms made its debut this week at the opening of the Los Angeles art exhibit. “It’s about the ongoing conversation around mass surveillance, the weaponization of technology and cultural uniformity. My space was created so that we can come together and talk about the complexities of our humanity,” said Monáe. #wwdeye (📷: @bucknerphoto)
@pantone announced their Color of the Year 2018: Ultra Violet. Nearly 20 months after the musician Prince’s death, fashion is having a purple moment. Varying shades of purple appeared on spring or fall runways, from @christopherkane to @calvinklein. @gucci’s Alessandro Michele bathed his fall runway in ultra violet-colored light at one point. Pantone 18-3838 is meant to “push the boundaries of what inspires us to look upward and outward to the future.” #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)