"Today, we think nutritional complements are indispensable to beauty," said Natacha Dzikowski, global brand image director of Sephora France, in Paris.
"We recognize that beauty is about overall well-being, a significant part of which is internal wellness," added Allison Slater, vice president of retail marketing for Sephora U.S.A. in New York.
The perfumery's spaces, known as "Healthy & Beauty" bars, measure about 22 square feet and stock approximately 10 ingestible brands, including Fushi, N.V. Perricone, Murad and Sephora's 24H Slimming Program. Experts are on hand to advise clients here, as well.
"This isn't medical—that's not what we're about," explained Dzikowski. "We are into 'happy science.' "
Farmacia Urban Healing similarly plans to make accessible health- and beautyrelated information on the supplements it sells. (See related story, page 14.) Fueling this feel-good-look-good trend is a new notion of holistic beauty, which takes into account all aspects of a person's life and shuns quick fixes.
"Botox and invasive surgery are with us now as part of our lives, but not everyone has the funds to maintain that lifestyle and not everyone thinks it's the right thing to do," said Debbie Beaumont-Howell, beauty buyer at House of Fraser.
Whole Foods, the ultimate "green grocer," has become a front-running retailer in the holistic beauty race. In its stores, beauty products from brands such as Ren and Nude are sold close to organic oats and olive oils, plus health and beauty supplements. By introducing a visual link between nutrition, wellness and beauty, the retailer, which often features in-store treatment rooms as well as deli counters, has upped the ante for traditional beauty players, executives say.
"As a society right now, we are obsessed with food—cooking shows, 'accessible gourmet,' active foods, bioengineered foods, super-organics—and taking food to the next level of anti-aging," said New York-based beauty futurologist Jeanine Recckio.
However, eating properly is not enough to remain in top shape, according to some industry executives.
LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned Sephora perfumery and House of Fraser department store chains are among retailers bulking up their ingestible beauty offer this fall. So, too, are cosmetics brands, from high-tech dermatologists to übernatural names.The ingestible category shows tremendous promise. Oral beauty supplements are expected to generate sales of $1.155 billion (?830 million/£569 million) in Europe by 2010; that's a 50% spike over the $767.6 million they rang up in 2005, according to London-based tracking firm Datamonitor. And in 2000, the segment's revenues were just half of that.
Over in the U.S., the ingestible beauty category is growing at a healthy clip, too. While sales of oral beauty supplements there were $741.9 million in 2005, Datamonitor forecasts their revenues will hit $1.17 billion by 2010.
"We're predicting strong growth related to the fact that people are searching for new ways to look after themselves, especially their appearance," said Dominik Nosalik, lead analyst at Datamonitor.
Among the most significant indicators of Europeans getting into ingestibles is Sephora's decision to introduce an in-store beauty concept focused on nutritional supplements and drinks in 27 of its 200 French stores starting September. If it proves to be successful, the concept will be rolled out further.
"The nutritional value of food has been depleted from what it was 50 years ago," said Farmacia Urban Healing's founder Sanjay Bhandari. "The nutritional content of soil has been depleted and is weak."
Aging populations are also helping spur growth in the ingestible beauty market.
In the U.K., for example, the percentage of women aged 35 to 64 will hit 40.5% of the female population in 2010 versus the 37.8% they made up in 2000, according to Datamonitor statistics.
"We are living longer and want to be healthier for longer," said Agnès Jacquot, marketing director of Groupe Neptune, of Thiais, France, which owns Vichy Célestins beauty water. (See story below.) "A 50-yearold person today isn't the same as a 50-year-old person 30 years ago, when that was already considered old. Now, at 50, you have your whole life ahead of you. Men and women are taking care to be able to really make the most of this stage of their lives."
"The core audience [for oral beauty care] is what we call 'mid-lifers,' from late 30s up to 50s. They're female, employed, have a family, are affluent and prepared to pay for those products," said Nosalik.U.S. dermatologists behind "doctor brands," one of the most prevalent beauty trends in recent years, are also endorsing ingestible beauty. They decree effective skin-care regimens require more than simply slathering lotions on to skin.
"Skin care, in my mind, is topical and internal," said Howard Murad, a dermatologist based in El Segundo, California. "It requires a wholebody approach because your body and skin are connected. You can't have healthy skin without a healthy body."
The Murad line, which is sold over the Internet and in spas and specialty stores, has had supplements since its introduction in 1989. Items include Wet Suit Cell Hydrating Dietary Supplement, said to plump cells for smoother-looking skin. A bottle of 60 pills is $43.
New York-based dermatologist Nicholas Perricone shares a similar view, declaring, "You can only do so much by applying a cream."
"In the beauty industry, there's a growing awareness [of the advantages of] taking certain oils and supplements and feeding the skin from within," agreed Bryan Meehan, founder of London-based Nude, a new natural skin-care brand that includes supplements. "External beauty is linked to internal beauty."
In addition to supplements in capsule or tablet form, ingestible beauty treatments now include drinks and foods.
In March, Paris-based Danone introduced in France Essensis, a vitamin-rich yogurt, whose tagline reads "Nourish your skin from the inside." Meantime, Sip, a four-unit collection of nutrient- enriched beauty waters was launched in the U.K. in April.
"I think oral [beauty capsules] are a step too far for many women," said Kate Shapland, one of Sip's founders, based in Kettering, U.K., adding snacks and beverages can be more accessible and more convenient for many.
"The trend is just beginning—soon you will visit your local butcher and he will actually customize your food by injecting it with special ingredients, such as antioxidants and other powerful enzymes," said New York-based beauty futurologist Jeanine Recckio.
There's a newly coined word for this phenomenon: nutraceuticals.
"People are realizing that what you consume is more important for your skin's appearance than what you put on it," said Ranish Jansari, founder and chief executive officer of Londonbased beauty drinks brand Fushi, introduced in 2001.A veritable flood of waters with beauty-benefit claims is hitting the market. In September, Holdis, a Paris-based firm specializing in nutritional and cosmetics products, bowed AAA Apple Anti Age, a seven-unit line including one drink. Also in France this April, Vichy Célestins introduced Le Complexe Anti- Age, an antioxidant mineral water said to contain a daily dose of "anti-aging" apple and grape extracts.
"It brings the body antioxidants to allow it to fight free radicals caused by stress, aging and sun exposure, which cause skin to age," said Agnès Jacquot, marketing director of Thiais, France-based Groupe Neptune, which owns Vichy Célestins. "Consumers like being able to treat themselves well by consuming an every-day product. They don't necessarily want to take a dietary supplement."
Industry sources estimate Complexe Anti-Age will generate around ?6 million (£4.1 million/$8.3 million) in retail revenues during its first year.
Recckio, meantime, unveiled her own beauty water, dubbed Pretty Water, in August.
"You can only do so much so fast working with topical formulations," she explained. "When it comes to true moisturizing, you must hydrate skin, [the body's] largest organ, from the inside." —BY BRID COSTELLO, MOLLY PRIOR AND ELLEN GROVES
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