The men's fragrance market is about to get down — with a Juicy Couture men's fragrance called Dirty English.
"We've wanted to do a men's fragrance for a long time," said Gela Nash-Taylor, who along with Pamela Skaist-Levy founded the Juicy Couture brand. "Since we began our men's line [in 2004], we've been upping the ante in contemporary men's wear, and men are more into beauty and grooming products than they've ever been. They are buying their own pomade and fragrance, and their own clothes, rather than waiting for women to buy all of those things for them. This is the perfect time to launch a men's scent."
Dirty English, said Nash-Taylor, is a combination between her self-proclaimed Anglomania (she is married to Duran Duran bass player John Taylor) and Skaist-Levy's "CZ Guest style" with a dash of attitude inspired by a 1976 review of a Sex Pistols concert. The scent also takes a few style cues from the 5,000-square-foot Juicy Couture flagship the pair opened on Rodeo Drive in October, she said. "We have a loft that is designed to make men want to come and hang out," Nash-Taylor said of the upstairs space, intended to resemble a billiard room. Details include parquet herringbone floors, a leather couch, a gold knight in armor propped next to a fireplace and a surfboard reading, "Dude, Where's My Couture?" She's hoping the similarly he-man details on the fragrance — including chain built into the cap and a square, heavy glass bottle — also will draw men in. And, promised Nash-Taylor with a laugh, "Any self-respecting bad boy will want to wear it."
The scent, by Givaudan's Claude Dir, has top notes of peppered mandarin, blue cypress, Calabrian bergamot, caraway and cardamom pods; a heart of marjoram, black leather and the proprietary Santal Fatal accord, which consists of sandalwood, atlas cedarwood and vetiver roots and a dry-down of agarwood, ebony wood, black moss absolute and amber musk.
"The Juicy Couture women's fragrance has been an incredible success globally, and we are expecting the same type of success from Dirty English," said Art Spiro, president of Liz Claiborne Cosmetics, which holds the Juicy Couture fragrance license. "It's got style, with an irreverent wink."Dirty English will have a one-month exclusive at Bloomingdale's beginning mid-March, and will roll out to its remaining distribution — for a total of about 1,400 U.S. department and specialty store doors — in mid-April, said Debbie Nuzzo, vice president of sales for Liz Claiborne.
The collection includes eaux de toilette in two sizes, 1.7 oz. for $52 and 3.4 oz. for $70; Skin & Tonic aftershave tonic, $50 for 3.4 oz.; English Cream aftershave soother, $42 for 4.2 oz.; De-Funk Deodorant, $20 for 2.6 oz.; Up With a Twist shower gel, $30 for 6.7 oz. and Head Mate styling pomade, $18 for 1.7 oz., said Paul McLaughlin, creative director for Liz Claiborne.
Advertising — a mix of ransom-note typography and scratch-and-sniff patches — will break in March fashion, beauty and lifestyle magazines, noted Marcy Fisher, vice president of cosmetics marketing at Liz Claiborne.
While none of the executives would comment on sales projections or advertising spending, industry sources estimated that Dirty English would do about $23 million at retail in its first year on counter and that about $15 million would be spent on advertising and promotion.
In addition to the fragrance, said Nash-Taylor, she and Skaist-Levy will launch a men's eyewear range as the scent launches. "Next after that will be an infants' line, great men's loungewear like boxers and robes, sleepwear in the fall for women and a women's flanker fragrance that we haven't named yet," said Nash-Taylor. In the fall, she mentioned that she and Skaist-Levy were also working on P&G, a project said to include two juices — one named for Pam and the other for Gela — that consumers can mix themselves, essentially creating custom-blended scents.
Color cosmetics also are on the duo's wish list. "Pam and I are serious makeup junkies," said Nash-Taylor, adding that a color line might be released by a different partner than Claiborne. Nash-Taylor and Skaist-Levy tested the color cosmetics waters in the fall with Juicy Crittoure, a dog grooming line, which includes nail polish.
Music also is a business focus for the duo. "We want to sell CDs in our stores and downloads online," said Nash-Taylor. They'll lead that charge with a promotional effort for Dirty English, which will include a compilation CD that DJ Brett Brooks put together for Skaist-Levy and Nash-Taylor.A 9,000-square-foot New York flagship on Fifth Avenue is slated for August, and the duo hopes to have 60 U.S.-based Juicy Couture stores up and running by yearend. An Asian expansion also is expected by yearend, bringing the number of stores globally to 83. And the duo is considering a runway show in New York this fall.
But one thing remains the same, said Nash-Taylor: "We still have an irreverent, unorthodox approach to our products, and that won't change."
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