PARIS -- Like many beauty giants, the health of L'Oreal can be gauged by its flow of new products. Last year's launch tally was 60 different lines, a staggering number by any industry standard.
Here, some new brands to watch.
Start by Laboratoires Garnier: L'Oreal's entry into the budding men's men's treatment market debuted in February on French mass-market shelves and will roll out to selected European markets by the end of the year.
The Laboratoires Garnier brand, which includes toiletries, sun care and hair care lines, eventually will come to the U.S., according to Guy Peyrelongue, president and chief executive officer of the New York-based Cosmair, Inc. The brand, he said, would give Cosmair a lower-priced alternative in the mass market. "The products have great quality, but they're more affordable than L'Oreal."
Helena Rubinstein: After completing its acquisition of the brand in 1988, L'Oreal yanked Rubinstein from the shelves, then set about reinventing the brand.
Today, Rubinstein skin care, makeup and sun care products boast striking, upscale packaging, sophisticated advertising and prices 10 percent above Lancome. The real test will be Rubinstein's homecoming to the U.S.
Lindsay Owen-Jones, chairman and chief executive officer of L'Oreal, said, "It's difficult to determine just how long we'll feel we have to wait until the memories of Helena Rubinstein in the mass market have gone away sufficiently for us to be able to relaunch it in U.S. department stores."
Capital Soleil by Vichy Laboratoires: Although there are numerous sun filters for UVB rays, which cause sunburn, there are very few that protect effectively against UVA rays, which cause photo-aging. In 1982, L'OrÄal researchers developed a new anti-UVA molecule -- Mexoryl-SX. However, it took nine years to get European Community authorization and it is still waiting for U.S. approval. Last year it was put to use in Capital Soleil. The Vichy pharmacy brand does 97 percent of its business in Europe. But executives believe there's worldwide potential.
Biotherm: In 1992, Cosmair restricted the brand's distribution to the Miami-based Burdines. Worldwide, Biotherm was given updated packaging and a new ad campaign to emphasize nature and simplicity, an apparent answer to the industry's New Age marketing trend. Price points have been cut in some world markets, including the U.S. Owen-Jones predicts, "You'll see a lot more Biotherm in the States."Peyrelongue said Cosmair is planning to expand Biotherm's distribution to an additional department store chain.
Oui-Non by Kookai: L'Oreal has ruled out children's fragrances, but has no qualms about going after the toddler's teenage sister. Oui-Non is L'Oreal's most sophisticated effort yet to woo the elusive teenybopper customer. Launched in the French mass market in July, it had 1993 sales of 40 million francs and is set to be rolled out in Europe this year. It follows the 1991 launch of a Naf Naf scent.
Both are part of the company's scheme to grow its mass-market fragrance business.
"We're beginning to understand how to develop something approximately equivalent to the [U.S.] Vanderbilt type of franchise in the rest of the world," Owen-Jones said. "The big difficulty is that the brands that appeal in this mass-but-quality-fragrance business are not really very often worldwide brands. But even if Kookai clothes didn't come to the U.S. for a long time, who says that the Kookai kind of madness in advertising and way of talking to kids couldn't be translated into something attractive for American teenagers?"
Breaking News: @louisvuitton's men's artistic director @mrkimjones is leaving the French fashion house after nearly 7 years. Jones joined Louis Vuitton in 2011, following a three year tenure as creative director of British luxury goods brand Alfred Dunhill. Jones is to exit Louis Vuitton after showing his fall 2018 collection for the brand in Paris on Thursday. Read the full exclusive story on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews