Kendall Jenner launches The Estée Edit at Selfridges in London.
The Estée Edit didn't make the cut.The line was developed by the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. specifically for Sephora in 2016 and heralded as a way for the company to reach Millennials who shop with multifunctional skin-care and makeup products made specifically for them. Lauder hired Kendall Jenner and beauty blogger Irene Kim to give input, and industry sources once projected the line could do $60 million in year-one sales.But things seemed to wobble from the start. Last fall, Lauder chief executive officer Fabrizio Freda said in an interview after the company's first-quarter earnings call that the line was "tweaking and adjusting in collaboration with Sephora" in terms of product and mix.As of September, sales of the collection will cease in Sephora U.S. and Canada, as well as in Selfridges and the Edit's freestanding store in London, WWD has learned. Online sales through Lauder's web site will continue through the end of the year. Right now, the collection is selling for 30 percent off at Sephora. It launched with 82 stockkeeping units, 72 of which were color products.
Lauder said in a statement: "Estée Lauder created The Estée Edit collection for Sephora to recruit Millennial consumers. Simultaneous efforts by the core Estée Lauder brand have recruited Millennials via digital and makeup at an unprecedented rate. Therefore, after a year of valuable insights and learnings, we have decided that a separate brand in North America dedicated to recruiting Millennials is no longer necessary. We are committed to our partnership with Sephora and we are working closely to strengthen our business in Sephora and develop exciting new programs."
The Edit was one of a handful of moves Lauder has made in the past few years to target Millennials and build up its presence in specialty retail stores. Some of the company's core brands, like MAC Cosmetics in the U.S. and Clinique, have faced challenges with shifting consumer preferences and retail climates, but Lauder has actively acquired other brands — like Becca Cosmetics and Too Faced — with expertise in those areas.Several beauty industry sources criticized the Edit for its formulations and branding. "You need to be careful how far you push the brand in terms of making it edgy. They, maybe on the branding side, pushed it too much to where people were like ‘You’re just trying to be cool,’" said one beauty industry source. Others suggested Jenner wasn't the right decision in terms of a spokesperson."In general, the most productive influencer relationships happen when brands engage influencers who genuinely love — and have a history using and posting about — their products. It lends credibility and engenders loyalty," said Conor Begley, cofounder and president of Tribe Dynamics.Jenner isn't known for wearing a lot of makeup and has talked about it publicly. At a launch event for the collection in London in May 2016, she said, "If I’m just running errands, I won’t wear much makeup. I’ll throw on a really nice, light foundation, bronzer and some mascara. I’m pretty simple. It takes me 10 minutes tops." A quick scroll through her Instagram account shows few posts related to the collection.The Estée Edit never achieved the social media clout of other brands, Tribe data shows. In its best months, it was generating around $5 million in earned media value — compared to brands such as Anastasia Beverly Hills, which generated $496 million in EMV for a one-year period.
But even as the Edit fades away, Lauder remains focused on capturing the Millennial consumer. And the company's initiatives on the Estée Lauder brand, including the Pure Color Envy lipstick collection at Ulta Beauty, also seem to be going well, said Stifel analyst Mark Astrachan. Lauder has also noted recent success with its Double Wear Foundation line on earnings calls.
According to a Lauder spokeswoman, Double Wear Stay-in-Place Makeup is the bestseller at Ulta Beauty and during the brand's fall 2016 launch, 41 percent of Lauder makeup customers during the first 90 days were new to the brand, and of those, 66 percent were between 18- to 34-years-old. Double Wear is expanding from 20 Sephora doors to 60.
"They're having success with a product that’s branded as the real thing in Ulta, and it shows the brand is not as dead as maybe some had speculated," Astrachan said. "If you can make the brand itself edgier without having an extension of it, that's the best scenario.…It can reinvigorate the brand."
That includes attracting different shoppers because the Ulta Beauty shopper doesn't generally overlap with the department store shopper, he said. "You're bringing in new blood to the brand, which you want," he said.
"You can’t succeed if you don't try, and failure is just an example of that. I'm not knocking them for it — the fact they’ve had success with the full brand at Ulta is probably more important than the this brand going away," Astrachan said.
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye