CANNES, France — As in numerous local markets, newness remains a key growth driver in travel retail.
Among products and upcoming projects showcased at the TFWA exhibition were:
Beaute Prestige International: Product extensions for Jean Paul Gaultier’s Le Male line of beauty products for men, including a mascara and a self-tanner. Also under the Gaultier moniker will be limited editions of the designer’s women’s fragrance, Classique. One includes a perfume extract clad in a hand-tailored corset that reportedly takes 15 hours to concoct.
Clarins: Three fragrances are in the works, including one each for the Clarins and Thierry Mugler brands, plus a debut scent for Stella Cadente.
Cosmopolitan Cosmetics: Escada Rockin’ Rio, a limited-edition fashion fragrance, will be launched in February. A new Escada women’s fragrance is planned for the second half of 2005. Anna Sui Secret Wish is scheduled for a worldwide launch in May, and a men’s scent for Dunhill will come out in the first half of 2005.
Estée Lauder Cos.: While showing off the new Be Delicious initiative at a cocktail party here, the brand also unveiled the scent’s male counterpart, which will launch next year. And on the flanker front, in addition to its Lauder Pleasures Exotic scent, Clinique will bow Happy to Be, a new flanker for its Happy franchise, worldwide this spring. Lauder also will roll out a summer initiative for its Aramis Life brand.
Euroitalia: I Love Love, the new Moschino Cheap & Chic scent targeting women ages 25 to 35, will be out for Valentine’s Day in Europe and in the U.S. later.
Guerlain: In 2005, Guerlain will focus heavily on color cosmetics and plans to unveil a 30 stockkeeping-unit lipstick line, Kiss Kiss, worldwide next September. A new travel retail scent, Love Is All, is expected for February, and an eau de toilette for L’Instant de Guerlain is planned, among other projects.
Inter Parfums: A Lanvin men’s fragrance is set to launch by yearend 2005, with a women’s scent set to roll out six months later, and a Celine masterbrand is scheduled for spring, said Philippe Benacin, ceo of Inter Parfums S.A.Lancaster: Miami Glow, the new Jennifer Lopez fragrance, will bow this spring, and a new initiative for JLo could come by yearend 2005. A Jil Sander Sport masterbrand and a men’s Joop fragrance will come in late spring, as will summer fragrances for Davidoff Cool Water, Cool Water Woman and Cool Water Deep. Vivenne Westwood’s Anglomania, which bowed in the U.K. two weeks ago, will roll out worldwide in the spring.
L’Oréal: A new Cacharel women’s scent and possibly a new women’s scent for Lancôme are being planned for next year.
Loewe: Perfumes Loewe’s biggest initiative for 2005 is its Solo Loewe men’s scent. Inspired by the “harmony of extremes,” it is now rolling out to stores in Spain and Portugal. Some markets in the Middle East are set to get the fragrance by yearend, and a further rollout is expected in the first half of next year.
Procter & Gamble Prestige Beauté: Christopher West, global brand manager for Yohji Yamamoto Parfums, a division of Procter & Gamble Prestige Beauté, showed a men’s counterpart to the designer’s recently launched signature women’s scent. “Yohji wanted everything to be about the delight of discovery,” said West. To wit, designer Henry de Monclin created a bottle that appears to be rectangular from the front but that is actually curved.
Puig: In addition to showcasing its already popular Prada scent, the firm showed buyers 212 Sexy, a Carolina Herrera initiative that will launch in the U.S. in April and later in travel retail.
Unilever Cosmetics International: The firm is gearing up to launch its next Chloé fragrance next year and a Vera Wang initiative is said to be in the pipeline. It could be launched next year.
Marc Rosen held a Chinese-themed reception Wednesday evening at the Hotel Carlton to announce the international launch of his fragrance, Shanghai, including a debut in China Nov. 15.
Versace: Giver Profumi managing director Ferdinando Silva Coronel threw a gala for its latest women’s scent, Versace Crystal Noir, on Tuesday night. Silva Coronel said the scent already is reporting strong sales, mostly in London.Riviera Concepts: The firm showed off its Hummer fragrance, which already is reporting strong sales in U.S. department stores, said Adrian Ellis, company president.
Ferragamo Parfums: Luciano Bertinelli, managing director of fragrances at Salvatore Ferragamo, shared Incanto Dream, an offshoot of its Incanto franchise, which is set to bow in February. The scent targets Asian consumers and features a tweaked Incanto bottle and juices. He also said a men’s version of its Emanuel Ungaro Apparition scent is set to bow in 2005.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast