The spring collection of 3.1 Phillip Lim had a decidedly Spanish matador undercurrent with lots of flourishes. The beauty look took its inspiration from a different place and time, while complementing the more subdued colors of the collection.
Nars Cosmetics makeup artist Ayako turned to the iconic “National Geographic” cover of the young Afghan girl with penetrating green eyes for inspiration. She began by applying to eye lids a creamy brown shade of The Multiple, an eye, lip and cheek stick, called South Beach. In a nod to the Afghan girl’s memorable eyes, Ayako rimmed models’ eyes with turquoise eyeliner in Kitty, smudged it and then followed it with a black liner called Black Moon, which was also smudged.
“It’s very gypsy,” said Ayako. To contrast the turquoise, using her finger she smudged a thick line of Grenadines, a brick-colored, powdered eye shadow, along the top and lower lash line. As for the eyebrows, Ayako said with a laugh, “We purposely cast girls with bushy eyebrows.” To give models an earthy skin tone, she dusted a light brown blush, called Zen, over the face. She finished by dabbing berry lipstick lightly onto the lips.
“The look is suitable for all skin types,” she said, adding the powerful, dark eyes fit the collection. “You need a strong feature to make it sexy,” she said of the makeup look.
For the hair, hairstylist Odile Gilbert for Aveda parted hair to one side, creating a ponytail at the top of the opposite side of the head. She then parted the ponytail to create large, structured rolls. Gilbert finished the look with a ribbon-like strand of hair winding around the bottom, up to the rolls.
To set the style, she used Air Control Hair Spray and applied Light Elements Defining Whip to smooth fly-aways. “It’s a bit Forties — and a little bit sweet,” said Gilbert.
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