PARIS — L’Oréal has signed an agreement to acquire Atelier Cologne, signaling the ever-gaining importance of niche perfumery in today’s beauty marketplace skewing toward premiumization.Terms of the deal were not disclosed, but industry sources estimate the brand’s wholesale revenues run between $55 million and $60 million annually.Atelier Cologne was launched in 2009 by Sylvie Ganter and Christophe Cervasel, who were inspired by eau de cologne. They elevated the classic fragrance form; whereas such scents traditionally are made of less than 5 percent essential oils, their creations – dubbed Colognes Absolues — contain 15 percent to 20 percent. The duo believes in the power of storytelling, the importance of explaining to customers the ideas and reasons behind their products, as well.Atelier Cologne’s line has subsequently been expanded to include fragranced soaps, shower gels, body lotions and candles for the home.“Alternative perfumery is currently a high-growth segment,” stated Nicolas Hieronimus, president of L’Oréal Selective Divisions, which until now has opted to grow the company’s niche perfumery business organically.The executive said Atelier Cologne “will perfectly compliment the L’Oréal Luxe brand’s portfolio, which includes exclusive perfume collections from its biggest brands: Armani Privé, Le Vestiaire des Parfums by Yves Saint Laurent, Maison Lancôme, Replica by Maison Margiela, as well as the Ralph Lauren Collection.”“We are delighted to benefit from the group’s retail and digital expertise and L’Oréal Luxe’s olfactory expertise to make the brand even more successful,” Ganter and Cervasel said jointly in a statement.Atelier Cologne products are sold in more than 800 sales points in 40 countries and on e-commerce sites. The brand has six freestanding stores, of which three are in France, two in the U.S. and one in Hong Kong.Prior to Atelier Cologne, L’Oréal has not owned a fragrance label with its own retail doors.The company’s acquisition is the latest move in the race among multinationals to snap up hot niche beauty labels as the trend for premium products keeps rising. Luxury and super-luxury brands also tend to offer solid growth rates, and they present an alternative for some big beauty companies wanting to move from celebrity or fashion brands.The Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. has been a frontrunner in the charge for niche labels. In February it acquired By Kilian, while in 2014 it scooped up Éditions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, Rodin Olio Lusso and Le Labo.In early January of this year, Puig acquired Penhaligon’s and L’Artisan Parfumeur.While niche fragrance brands keep cropping up, there are not many today with enough critical mass to put them on the radar of big companies. Some privately held fragrance brands in Europe currently ripe for the picking — though none with a visible for-sale sign at present — include Maison Francis Kurkdjian, Creed, Memo and Juliette Has a Gun.
In honor the @CFDA’s announcement of @iamnaomicampbell receiving the Fashion Icon Award at the 2018 #CFDAAwards, which will take place on June 4, here’s a #tbt of the supermodel on @michaelkors’ runway in 1991. #wwdfashion #wwdarchive (📷: George Chinsee)
“I was making the guacamole when my scout saw me,” says model @stuckinteenage on being discovered just six months ago while working at @chipotlemexicangrill. Since then Williams has signed with @dnamodels, walked in her first show at @calvinklein and landed on the cover of @vogueitalia – a high point of any model’s career. To read @lisajlockwood’s full interview with the model on her experiences thus far, head to WWD.com – link in bio. (📷: George Chinsee)
“I love the idea of dialogue, period. It’s where I’ve always gotten my inspiration from: hearing other women speak, their journeys and their paths,” said @hereisgina, who delivered the keynote speech during @sxsw for @createcultivate in partnership with @fossil. For her two panels, Rodriguez chose female empowering, female-led and female entrepreneurs to focus on. Head to WWD.com to read more about her thoughts on Time’s Up, growing up in a family of women and why we “need a girls’ club.” #wwdeye #sxsw (📷: @jgreenery)
Leading luxury brand are shaking things up to keep up with streetwear. Case in point: the arrival of @mrkimjones as artistic director of @diorhomme. Jones, who succeeds @Kris_Van_Assche, is seen as one of the handful of designers who can actually straddle the luxury and streetwear worlds — which could lead to even more changes at established brands. What could this mean for the rest of the menswear landscape? Head to WWD.com to find out what experts predict #wwdfashion (📷: @franckmura)
“It’s like buying groceries. You’re going to buy the best mango, the best mozzarella, the best things. You have to, or others are going to take it all,” said @gabrielahearst on why she uses only the finest fabrics. Last week, Hearst received her first @cfda nomination for Womenswear Designer of the Year, and earlier this month she opened a permanent showroom in Paris. To read @jessiredale’s interview with the designer and find out why this is shaping up to be a big year for her, head to WWD.com. #wwdfashion (📷: @francoisgoize)
“It’s an interesting thing, playing a younger version of your mother. It’s an interesting concept. I adore my mom and love her in every capacity, but it was just something that had never crossed my mind,” says @anniemstarke on playing a young Joan Castleman in “The Wife.” The same role will be played by her mother Glenn Close. Read more about her growing up in the film industry as the daughter of producer John H. Starke and Close and what she has planned for the future #wwdeye (📷: @nataliamantini)
@asics is launching a new streetwear sneaker inspired by its latest ambassador, @steveaoki. The Hyper-Kenzen x Aoki, which will launch at @footlocker stores exclusively tomorrow, is a slip-on style that incorporates the brand’s proprietary Gel technology through beads integrated into the midsole for comfort and endurance. Read the full story on WWD.com.