The Estée Lauder cosmetics brand made its New York Fashion Week debut along with its creative makeup director, Tom Pecheux, backstage at Derek Lam on Tuesday.
Pecheux, who was named to his role at Lauder in November, created a strong, monochrome eye using two metallic blue shades on the top lid and a metallic copper shade on the bottom lid. He also applied Estée Lauder Double Wear Stay-in-Place Eye Pencil in a shade called Midnight Blue, as well as the brand’s TurboLash All Effects Motion Mascara in Black.
“I’m playing with a dual color, covering the entire [eye] lid, from the lashes to the eye brow,” said Pecheux, noting that he combined a bright blue and a dark blue on the top lids — shades that were being tested backstage prior to their introduction this fall — and added an extra blue arc on the top of the lid to impart a feeling of power.
On the lips, a product called Pure Color Crystal Lipstick in Crystal Beige was used as a primer before the metallic copper shade used on the eyes was added, creating a matte finish. The use of the copper shade on both the eyes and the lips served to “balance out the entire face,” according to Pecheux, who added that he was inspired by an earthy American Indian with a look that was “twisted into a more urban woman.”
The mascara was applied to the top lashes and dark brows were made darker, while light brows were more or less left alone.
“The skin is a pretty, matte finish,” said Pecheux, adding that the idea was to have “respect for [models’] skin tone.” Cheeks were left virtually bare, given just a slight contour, he added.
Nails, which were done by Jin Soon Choi for Estée Lauder, were given a pale, very sheer pink color that was being tested backstage.
On the hair side, stylist Orlando Pita, who was working on behalf of Moroccanoil, said, “The look is more
about texture — ethereal, airy [and] wispy.” The down dos featured parts to the side and in the middle of the head. “We talked about how the hair was going to move on the runway,” he said, “rather than any particular inspiration.”
To achieve the look, Pita employed a process of spraying the hair with Moroccanoil hair spray, then drying it and brushing it out. He repeated this process over and over until the hair on each model reached the desired amount of texture. Just before the girls hit the runway, their hair was “fluffed up,” said Pita.