BOSTON — Retailers will be rich in minerals as they reset beauty departments next year.
Entries into the mineral makeup segment were the predominant trend at the National Association of Chain Drug Stores' Marketplace meeting, held this week at the Boston Conference and Exhibition Center. Beginning as soon as next month, mass market retailers will have more mass equivalents of the cosmetics brand Bare Escentuals, which became a hot item in the prestige market in the Nineties. New mineral lines from Maybelline, Revlon, Wet 'n' Wild and Mirage are expected to join mass market mineral pioneer Physicians Formula and its followers, Neutrogena, Milani, Jane, L'Oréal, Cover Girl and Walgreens' exclusive brand IsaDora. Almay, too, is launching mineral items, slated to land in stores next month.
Retailers acknowledged that mineral makeup offers a better end result and are in the midst of determining just how many mineral items they need.
"Minerals have a loyal following," confirmed Montean La Porte, buyer for Ulta, which sells Bare Escentuals as well as its own house line.
Ingrid Jackel, chief executive officer of Physicians Formula, said minerals, like bronzers, is now a category, not just a trend. "You can compare it to long-wearing formulas like ColorStay when they first debuted. They have become a category."
Now the mineral wars are heating up among companies as they try to prove their powders are superior to others.
Milani is expanding on its mineral assortment in 2008 with Mineral Eye Pencils, which are talc free and formulated with vitamin E, and oil from mango seed, cottonseed and jojoba. Items will sell for $3.99 each. Also, a new Mineral Blush with a no-mess brush is entering stores and will sell for $4.99.
Revlon's mineral entry, a complete cosmetics lineup which includes face, color and pencil items, is said to be marketed under the Age-Defying brand, a natural link since minerals are known to hide imperfections. One buyer who recently viewed the line called it "the best lineup from the company in several years."
Tina Perez, vice president of marketing for Markwins International, the maker of Wet 'n' Wild, said the company's entry into minerals will take the category "to the next step."Jane is expanding on its Be Pure mineral line, including seven new eye shadows, mineral pencils and eight mineral lip balms.
L'Oréal, said one buyer, is expanding on its Bare Naturale Minerals line this fall, with a mineral veil product as well as with eye shadows.
Alba and Juice Organics are each launching color-tinted glosses formulated with minerals. Sally Hansen also offers minerals imbued in lip color. And, Mirage's mineral items claim to have more mineral concentration.
The avalanche of new mineral items will create a space crunch on the cosmetics wall. Wet 'n' Wild, for example, is said to be asking for 2 more feet. Jane, according to company president and ceo Lisa Yarnell, is receiving more footage based on the success of its Be Pure mineral items.
Another impact of the rush to minerals may be the bottom line, since some of the more value-type mineral items, which are produced overseas for a fraction of the cost, have much lower price points.
"Retailers are digging themselves a hole," said Physician Formula's Jackel. "They are letting budget and value brands knock off the national bands and the impact is simple," noting that consumers who are trading down from an $18 sale to a $5 sale will affect the entire category.
Physician's Formula is in final testing for its 30-minute infomercial venture. Jackel said the next phase of testing will measure whether sales of Physicians Formula increases in stores in the regions the infomercial is running. Products purchased from the infomercial include a $5 retailer coupon to drive customers to stores. If the venture is successful, the infomercial may launch nationally in 2008. — Faye Brookman, Andrea Nagel and Michelle Edgar
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over the top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty