NEW YORK — In an extreme example of counter-intuitive beauty marketing, a Costa Mesa-based skin care concern is recommending clients bake under an ultrahigh-beam light box aimed directly at their faces. And here’s the even wackier part:...
NEW YORK — In an extreme example of counter-intuitive beauty marketing, a Costa Mesa-based skin care concern is recommending clients bake under an ultrahigh-beam light box aimed directly at their faces. And here’s the even wackier part: The 20-minute procedure, dubbed Lumière and marketed through tanning salons, is meant to remove wrinkles — not create them.
Based on the concept of “photodynamic therapy,” the Lumière treatment was created in conjunction with companion ranges of skin care and nutritional supplements. When partnered with proprietary “photoceuticals” and “nutraceuticals,” the Lumière device, which delivers red light rays of 633 nanometers, is said to restore damaged skin cells to their more energized, youthful, original state.
According to Raymond Mead, chief executive officer of RAI Inc., which markets Lumière, the premise of the new procedure borrows heavily from mid-Nineties light-wave data gleaned from the U.K.’s Paterson Institute for Cancer Research. Through its work in photodynamic therapy, the research facility has successfully deployed red light to treat nonmelanomic skin lesions.
“Paterson understood that different wavelengths of light — in this case, 633 nanometers — stimulated cells and helped in the delivery of topical ingredients,” said Mead. “They were exploring photosensitizers intended to kill cancer cells, so they were applying topicals and then exposing the lesions to 633 nanometers of light.”
Evidently, the Paterson team stumbled upon a few unintended side effects. “What they noticed throughout the course of treatment was that, not only was it effective for treating the cancer, the skin was rejuvenating itself,” said Mead. “Deep wrinkles were starting to soften, dark patches were subsiding and the complexion was evening out.”
Although there are other light-based beauty therapies currently offered through day spas and dermatologists, services such as Intense Pulsed Light and Thermage differ in what Mead refers to as their “mechanism of action.”
“IPL, cold laser, Thermage — they all produce results through purposely inflicting controlled damage on the skin, which in turn stimulates the production of collagen,” said Mead. “Lumière is different in that there’s absolutely no damage, so there’s no downtime. We just use the light to energize the cell. And by applying the topicals first, we’re able to feed the skin what it needs to produce collagen and elastin.”In November, Lumière made its debut in American tanning salons. To date, 43 tanning facilities in 15 different U.S. markets have signed on, installing the device and training staff to sell the treatments in a series of monthlong packages. The package price ranges from $99 to $369, depending on how many sessions are received throughout the 30-day period. For the $99 “Vitalizing” starter package, for example, which is aimed at clients with the least amount of damage, only three sessions are deemed necessary. The “Firming” package, pegged to those with clearly defined lines and wrinkles, requires twice as many sessions.
Here’s how the initial Lumière experience unfolds: After viewing an explanatory video, potential clients and tanning salon staff assess the level of skin damage and decide among three starter regimes — Vitalizing, Repairing and Firming. Just prior to the treatment, the clients cleanse and prepare their skin with “session” photoceuticals. Then they stretch out on a spa table, don protective eye goggles, pull the Lumière device down close to their faces and push the start button. Within seconds, light beams crank up to full intensity. Twenty minutes later, the device clicks off automatically. Because of post-session “night vision,” clients are advised to allow their eyes to adjust before hopping off the table and zooming out the door.
Afterward, Lumière clients are urged to use the “home care” photoceuticals and nutraceuticals, which are included in the package price. The seven-item range includes a cleanser, exfoliant, toner, daily moisturizer, facial sunblock, repairing night cream and the dietary supplement.
Within a year, Mead expects to have expanded Lumière’s distribution to 300 locations — all essentially self-service. “We’ve pretty much eliminated the middle man with this process,” said Mead. “That’s why we’re in tanning salons now. It fits their operating model very well and those owners are used to making big capital investments. Tanning beds aren’t cheap — some can cost up to $35,000.
“We intend to offer this in other beauty-service environments,” Mead added, “but I see it more for multistation hair salons than day spas.”
Michael Higgins, owner of three Atomic Tan salons in California’s Orange County, was an early adopter on the Lumière front. Bringing the service on board in early November in all three of his locations, Higgins said he’s pleased with the results.“We’re very happy with it so far,” said Higgins. “And it’s actually attracting a pretty wide range of clients. Although most have been women in the 30-plus category, we do have a couple of younger people. In fact, there’s a 15-year-old who has been using it to clear up a bad acne situation. She’s absolutely ecstatic.”
Although RAI executives would not discuss figures, industry sources forecast first-year sales of $8 million for Lumière.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty