MILAN -- Italian fragrance and cosmetics firms are thinking young and international in anticipation of the Cosmoprof fair in Bologna April 22-25.
Cosmoprof, an international show that last year attracted almost 120,000 visitors, is expected to feature 1,200 exhibitors, about a 5 percent increase over last year, according to organizers.
Many of the exhibiting manufacturers said they will be targeting a younger customer by using less expensive products often tied to youthful apparel lines. Companies also said they will concentrate not only on presenting new products but on expanding their foreign distribution.
ICR is launching three new designer fragrances at the fair, two by Gianni Versace and one by Romeo Gigli. Both the Versace and Gigli fragrances tie in with the designers' less expensive apparel lines, seen as strong sellers in recession-hit Italy.
The Versace women's scent is called Versace Red Jeans and has a floral base, according to Emanuela Fioretto, a spokeswoman for ICR. The men's fragrance is called Versace Blue Jeans, and is woody and aromatic.
The Jeans fragrances will be launched in Italy in May and should be in 1,200 prestige doors by the end of the year, Fioretto said. Foreign distribution has not been settled.
Versace intends the Jeans scents to be "collector's items," Fioretto said, and will change the juices and the names after 18 months.
"There may be Green Jeans for men or Pink Jeans for women in the future, for example," said Fioretto.
Each scent will be available in a 75-ml. spray only and will retail for $30, a relatively low price point that Fioretto said should attract "young-minded" customers.
ICR's new Gigli women's scent is called G Gigli after the designer's apparel line for young women.
The fragrance, a fruity floral, will be available in 50 ml. and 100 ml. splash and spray bottles made to look handblown.
ICR will distribute the scent only in Italy, where it is being launched in May. Milan-based Proteo will handle foreign distribution, and Escada Beaute is distributing G Gigli in the Americas. The U.S. launch is scheduled for this spring.
While discussing new products, several manufacturers said they planned to concentrate on international expansion, rather than just launches."Cosmoprof remains an interesting fair for us," said Claudio Tenan, export manager at Euroitalia. "For the Italian market, it remains a [public relations] event, but we are expecting to meet with new foreign clients, especially from the Arab gulf countries."
Euroitalia will launch a new women's bath line for Dolce & Gabbana at the fair. The line, which includes soap, body lotion, shower gel and talcum powder, will be distributed internationally, including the U.S., after Cosmoprof.
The year-old Ferre by Ferre women's bath line and Genny Shine women's scent and the two-year-old Ettore Bugatti men's fragrance are all extending distribution worldwide. Ferre by Ferre will be available at duty-free shops this year.
Florbath is also focusing on the international market. Its men's scent Spazio Krizia made its debut in Italy last October and in the Mideast in February. The fragrance is slated for a rollout in South and Central America this spring and a European and U.S. rollout by the end of 1994 or the beginning of 1995, according to Martin Trout, export manager at Florbath.
"We're looking for signs of an upturn in the economy at the fair," said Trout. "We're expecting some recovery, both in Italy and in the export markets."
Trout said he will also use Cosmoprof to introduce Racquets Formulas, a new item in the British perfume line Penhaligans, which is distributed in Italy by Florbath.
Diana De Silva Cosmetiques is looking to make deals for international distribution of several existing lines, according to Roberta Pucci, a company spokeswoman. One such line is the Byblos Uomo men's fragrance, which was launched in the U.S. and Italy last fall.
Cosmoprof is targeting high-end perfume stores this year with a special area dedicated to those retailers. Seminar topics will include consumer information on labels, image and communication in beauty institutes, new trends in perfume retailing and demonstrations of new hair products.
This year's edition of the International Perfume Awards, which are held during the fair, includes categories for best fragrance, best packaging and best marketing.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
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Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast