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Beauty at New York Fashion Week: Eyes

Eyes were the undisputed focal point for makeup artists this season.

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Chado Ralph Rucci

Pasha Antonov, John Aquino, Rodin Banica, George Chinsee, Kyle Ericksen, Giovanni Giannoni, Thomas Iannaccone, Todd Matarazzo, Robert Mitra, Stephen Sullivan

Appeared In
Special Issue
Beauty Inc issue 03/08/2013

Eyes were the undisputed focal point for makeup artists this season. Most popular were creative interpretations of punk rock-meets-Sixties thick black eyeliner, from Cover Girl’s Pat McGrath’s retro cat eye at Anna Sui that featured a dotted lower lash line to MAC’s Val Garland’s “stamped” black eye at Monique Lhuillier. “[The collection] is very elegant, very red-carpet evening,” said Garland. “We thought we’d do a very graphic eye that is a little bit more edgy. It’s all about the graphic liner and keeping the lashes unadorned.”

Equally as bold were the blues chosen by Diane Kendal at both Thakoon and Jason Wu. At the former, working with Nars, Kendal layered shades of navy powder and cream, topping off the look with a dusting of glitter. At the latter, using Lancôme, Kendal took as inspiration a bolt of fabric from Wu’s cobalt-blue finale dress, creating a vibrant doe eye by brushing the shade atop a deep purple shadow base.

More subtle but also noteworthy was dove gray used as either a complement or base. The looks ranged from MAC’s Tom Pechuex’s spooky sophistication at Altuzarra to Maybelline’s James Kaliardos’ military-meets-the- Thirties smoky eye at Richard Chai Love. “I wanted the girls to not be aggressive, but strong,” said Pecheux, as he applied a charcoal hue on the lid and lower lash line and created a faded effect in each corner. “She’s couture,” he said. “She’s fashion and she’s a bit crazy.”

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