Makeup artist Peter Philips designed an approachable Gothic look for the Nina Ricci show Thursday. “It’s classic with a touch of kooky darkness,” he explained.
To achieve the look, Philips focused on peepers, starting with eye shadow in Ebony from Chanel’s Ombre Essentielle range in the inner corners of the eyes. Lids were filled with a brownish-purple shade called Magic Night.
“It’s a chameleon color that adapts to the clothes in the collection,” he said. A touch of clownlike sadness came from a black kohl line added to the center of the models’ bottom lids, then smudged.
The rest of the face received a light touch. Philips, who is also creative director of Chanel makeup, blended a clear lip gloss with glints of red, purple and bronze for the show. Cheeks were colored with a beigy-apricot color called Fresque, which will bow next year. Skin was pale in matte ivory tones.
Odile Gilbert, meanwhile, dubbed her dramatic hairstyle “pure sculpture.” Long locks received a two-pronged approach. First, the top of the head to the nape of the neck was plastered down with Shiseido Design Tex 03 gel, then colored brown with a washable gel by Pro Styl from Ampro. From the nape down, Gilbert left the hair blonde and tonged in soft curls. A last minute spray of Brilliant Diamant by Capilo gave a high shine to the top half, while the curls were left matte.