By  on September 14, 2007

PARIS — Marrying scientific know-how with natural ingredients was the idea behind Novexpert, a skin care brand due to launch in France in November.

Following a decade of developing more than 1,600 formulas for leading beauty players in its laboratories near Versailles, France, Novexpert managing director Cyrille Telinge and his team of 20 chemists, dermatologists and biologists decided to create a brand of their own.

“We’ve seen a real segmentation in the fight against aging,” he said. “On the one hand, there are these so-called 100 percent natural products that potentially cause allergies, due to essential oils. And on the other hand, there are mainly chemical products, reputed to be more efficient, but whose long-term effects are little known.”

Arguing that fragrances are the number-one cause of skin allergies and preservatives the second, Novexpert’s researchers excluded those and other substances (numbering 1,600) — including silicone, parabens and mineral oils — from their new products’ formulations, which took five years to create.

With financial backing from France’s Research Ministry, Telinge and his team turned to biotechnology and came upon Novaxyline, an algae extract deemed to have anti-inflammatory qualities, fight free radicals and stimulate sirtuins. The net effect is increased cellular longevity and younger-looking skin, according to Telinge.

Other ingredients in the Novexpert products are peptides, hyaluronic acid and vitamins A and E. Telinge and his team didn’t let the hefty price tag of certain ingredients stand in their way. A kilo of peptides can cost 70,000 euros, or $97,185 at current exchange, whereas a kilo of Novaxyline goes for 30,000 euros, or $41,650, he said.

The seven-unit Novexpert lineup targets people of various skin types and ages. For all skin types, for instance, there is the 15-ml. bottle of Absolute Anti-Wrinkle Eye Contour Care, which is to retail for 39 euros, or $54.14; the 40-ml. flacon of Skin-Perfecting Serum, for 49 euros, or $68, and the 75-ml. flacon of Absolute Regeneration Mask for 36 euros, or $49.98.

While Telinge declined to reveal sales forecasts, industry sources estimate the new brand will generate first-year wholesale revenues of 3 million euros, or $4.2 million. The line will bow in 500 doors, including Galeries Lafayette department store and Parashop pharmacy chain.

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