Lead makeup artist for MAC Cosmetics, Sil Bruinsma began by explaining that when working with Thom Browne, words get thrown around. Specifically for this show, he had to work with clowns, insane and hospital. “Last season was very fairy tale,” said Bruinsma. “This year, we’re going a lot darker.”
He began by creating a matte white canvas using Studio Fix Fluid SPF 15. Then with a thick brush he dusted Setting Powder. For the eyes, he blended a Paint Stick in Black and Chromaline in Marine Ultra and covered the entire eye. To finish, the lips were overdrawn and exaggerated with a blue-based, matte red lip liner. The nurse’s makeup remains the way it was applied, but additionally they will be sporting glasses. But before the patients walk the runway, Bruinsma will smear the eyes and lips to create a literal insane vibe.
Inspired by an insane asylum, Jimmy Paul for Bumble and bumble divided the looks into two sections, nurses and patients. “The look is kind of uniform in its insanity,” said Paul.
The first stop for both characters was Surf Spray, which was applied throughout the hair. Then, it was dried and teased with a comb and sprayed with White Hair Powder. To differentiate the categories, the nurses’ top of the head was flat and the rest was teased and tucked into a white snood hair net. The patient’s hair is teased throughout the front sticking straight up and throughout the back, which was kept in a red snood. Only the girls with short hair are having wigs or extensions applied, for the rest, its all their own.
Applied over the top of latex gloves, fake nails painted with a matte white are being glued to each finger. Using Essie, one coat of Blanc was layered with one coat of Marshmallow. To finish, the nails were coated with Matte About You Top Coat.