MILAN — The deal for Dolce & Gabbana’s fragrance license is reportedly close to being signed.
Procter & Gamble is said to have emerged as the front-runner to challenge Euroitalia for the rights to renew the license, which will expire at the beginning of 2006. Euroitalia put Dolce & Gabbana on the world beauty map during the last decade as the holder of the license.
Rumors about a possible change in license have been swirling for at least a year. L’Oréal was thought to be the original suitor, then Procter & Gamble entered the picture, and even Estée Lauder was mentioned. P&G is thought to have edged out Lauder and L’Oréal in competition by brandishing an eye-opening offer, which sources say is $100 million up front and includes a royalty of 10 percent.
Procter & Gamble declined comment, as did Euroitalia, Dolce & Gabbana and Lauder. It is understood, however, that Euroitalia is continuing to hold talks with D&G and pursuing its bid to renew the license and hold onto the business it built.
The design house is expected to announce the new license holders of the fragrance division at its 20th anniversary celebration in September, said a source close to the designers.
An unnamed source said Euroitalia would continue distributing D&G fragrances until the end of the second quarter of 2006 — at the designers’ request.
Despite claims by industry sources in Paris, New York and Milan that Procter & Gamble has already signed the deal, some insiders said nothing had been inked yet.
“Giovanni Sgariboldi [head of Euroitalia] is a smart businessman. He has taken that brand from the beginning and is responsible for a major part of its success; he is tough; he has overcome losing this license before, and he might do it again. Don’t write him off yet,” said an industry executive.
If Procter & Gamble were to acquire the license, it would be added to the company’s growing fine fragrance portfolio, which includes Hugo Boss, Laura Biagiotti and, most recently, the Valentino fragrances.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast