PARIS — The scandal leading to John Galliano’s trial for public insult has made Perfume Holding review its strategy for the brand in the U.S. market, and the company has revealed that its sales for the licensed line have suffered in certain other countries.
The Franco-Italian firm’s second fragrance line for Galliano, Parlez-Moi d’Amour, hit counters in Europe and the Middle East last October. A U.S. launch had been scheduled for this spring.
“We held off launching in the U.S. because of the problems, and are reviewing our strategy for that market,” Perfume Holding vice president of creation and marketing development Brigitte Wormser revealed, without giving further details. Industry sources had suggested that Parlez-Moi d’Amour could generate first-year wholesale revenues of 10 million euros, or $14.3 million at current exchange. John Galliano fragrances are sold in 5,000 doors worldwide.
“[Galliano’s comments have had] an impact on sales in certain markets,” Wormser said, declining to reveal details. In Israel, the brand was strongly affected by Galliano’s alleged anti-Semitic outbursts, she commented, and certain German and British retailers were reticent about stocking the fragrance. In France and Italy, however, the impact has been minimal.
Certain German retailers had decided to destock the brand, and changed their minds after bloggers, who had already tested the fragrance, put pressure on them, she said.
“Parlez-Moi d’Amour has excellent scores on Sephora.fr,” Wormser said, suggesting this is proof that final consumers are little concerned about the situation.
“Everyone knows John was sick at the time,” Wormser said. She made a comparison with supermodel Kate Moss’ turbulent period: “We have all forgotten now that she messed up.”
“Consumers’ reception of Parlez-Moi d’Amour has been great, which is more important,” she said. Consumers seem to have moved on, but certain retailers have been reticent to continue stocking the brand.”
Regarding Galliano’s dismissal from his fashion brand, she said: “There are other brands whose namesake designer is no longer present, and who sell perfectly well. Young people today do not remember Paco Rabanne, but the brand is still successful.”
She added: “If the product is great, it becomes more important than the brand.”
“It is unfortunate for Perfume Holding that just when it decides to support the John Galliano brand, such negative publicity comes along,” one industry source said, estimating that annual wholesale turnover for the brand’s signature eau de parfum and eau de toilette duo is around 10 million euros, or $14.2 million at current exchange rates. “It is not a brand that has a huge turnover, and the current situation will not help it to grow in the short term. It will be several months before negative perceptions of the brand are forgotten.”
The designer is to stand trial for alleged racist and anti-Semitic outbursts in Paris beginning next Wednesday.
Despite the media frenzy surrounding the designer, Perfume Holding is going ahead with the launch of an edp version of Parlez-Moi d’Amour. The stronger, “more sensual” scent will enter Europe, the Middle East and Asia in October.
For the edp, International Flavors & Fragrances’ Aliénor Massenet added notes of mandarin, raspberry, chypre and vanilla to the formula. At launch, it will be priced 42, 59 and 69 euros, or $60, $85 and $99, respectively, for 30-, 50- and 80-ml. versions. An ad campaign will star Taylor Momsen, who already featured in visuals for the edt.
The Galliano business is based mainly on licensing. Key partners include Gibò Co. SpA for the signature men’s and women’s collections; Ittierre SpA for the second line, Galliano; Diesel for children’s wear; Marcolin SpA for eyewear; Albisetti for swimwear, and Morellato for watches.
As reported, retailers in North America and the U.K. reacted immediately and sharply to the scandal in March and often pulled products off shelves, while the business in other regions — including Asia, Europe and the Middle East — remained largely unaffected.
Meanwhile, the Galliano company, controlled by Christian Dior SA, has received unsolicited expressions of interest in the business from several of its Italian licensing partners as well as a Chinese group and a firm from the Middle East, even though the company has not been put up for sale.
On Thursday, a spokeswoman for Gibò said, “From our point of view the feedback is positive and the customers are showing they’re attached and faithful to the brand.”
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)
@Pharrell and his wife Helen Lasichanh were among the stars that came out to celebrate @rimowa’s first pop-up concept shop. The space, which is located on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, draws inspiration from airport luggage carousels and lounge areas – and features the company’s luggage and accessories. If the pop-up is successful it could pave the way for addition temporary shops throughout the world. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA)
@carineroitfeld celebrated @crfashionbook’s first calendar last night with a dinner party at Spring Place in Manhattan. Photographed by @stevenkleinstudio, the calendar takes on a fitness theme and features @joansmalls, @gigihadid, @danielle_herrington_ – pictured here – and more. “[Carine Roitfeld] wanted me to feel sexy and she wanted me to be myself and feel it out on my own and do what I felt was right,” said Herrington, aka Miss October. #wwdeye
@saintrecords and @virgilabloh last night at @americanexpress’ “A Night With Success Makers” event. “I always bring it back to community because without that I wouldn’t have the courage,” said Knowles when asked how she has gotten where she is now. Read more highlights from their conversation on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @lizdoupnik)
This Just In: Industry sources have told WWD that Anastasia Soare is rumored to be considering selling her beauty business, @anastasiabeverlyhills. According to those sources, Soare has tapped investment bank Imperial Capital to explore sale options for her eponymous beauty brand –– and with at least $340 million in net sales, this would be a big deal. Put in context of other recent transactions for makeup companies, Soare’s price tag could be in the billions if she were to sell the whole thing. #wwdnews #wwdbeauty (📷: @clint_spaulding)
@assouline’s latest book, “The Spirit of Bentley: Be Extraordinary” captures the adventurous attitudes and opulent lifestyles of @bentleymotors’ most creative owners and enthusiasts throughout the U.K. The 292-page hardcover has a section dedicated to showing its team of skilled artisans and photos of its most colorful owners, from George Bamford to designer @alicetemperley, pictured here by Aline Coquelle. #wwdeye
@google released its report on the most popular search terms this year. For fashion brands, the list was led by @gucci, the luxury brand that stunned the market last October when it pledged to stop using fur. Runner ups were @supremenewyork and @fashionnova, along with more established brands like @louisvuitton, @chanelofficial and @ysl. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)