PARIS — The scandal leading to John Galliano’s trial for public insult has made Perfume Holding review its strategy for the brand in the U.S. market, and the company has revealed that its sales for the licensed line have suffered in certain other countries.
The Franco-Italian firm’s second fragrance line for Galliano, Parlez-Moi d’Amour, hit counters in Europe and the Middle East last October. A U.S. launch had been scheduled for this spring.
“We held off launching in the U.S. because of the problems, and are reviewing our strategy for that market,” Perfume Holding vice president of creation and marketing development Brigitte Wormser revealed, without giving further details. Industry sources had suggested that Parlez-Moi d’Amour could generate first-year wholesale revenues of 10 million euros, or $14.3 million at current exchange. John Galliano fragrances are sold in 5,000 doors worldwide.
“[Galliano’s comments have had] an impact on sales in certain markets,” Wormser said, declining to reveal details. In Israel, the brand was strongly affected by Galliano’s alleged anti-Semitic outbursts, she commented, and certain German and British retailers were reticent about stocking the fragrance. In France and Italy, however, the impact has been minimal.
Certain German retailers had decided to destock the brand, and changed their minds after bloggers, who had already tested the fragrance, put pressure on them, she said.
“Parlez-Moi d’Amour has excellent scores on Sephora.fr,” Wormser said, suggesting this is proof that final consumers are little concerned about the situation.
“Everyone knows John was sick at the time,” Wormser said. She made a comparison with supermodel Kate Moss’ turbulent period: “We have all forgotten now that she messed up.”
“Consumers’ reception of Parlez-Moi d’Amour has been great, which is more important,” she said. Consumers seem to have moved on, but certain retailers have been reticent to continue stocking the brand.”
Regarding Galliano’s dismissal from his fashion brand, she said: “There are other brands whose namesake designer is no longer present, and who sell perfectly well. Young people today do not remember Paco Rabanne, but the brand is still successful.”
She added: “If the product is great, it becomes more important than the brand.”
“It is unfortunate for Perfume Holding that just when it decides to support the John Galliano brand, such negative publicity comes along,” one industry source said, estimating that annual wholesale turnover for the brand’s signature eau de parfum and eau de toilette duo is around 10 million euros, or $14.2 million at current exchange rates. “It is not a brand that has a huge turnover, and the current situation will not help it to grow in the short term. It will be several months before negative perceptions of the brand are forgotten.”
The designer is to stand trial for alleged racist and anti-Semitic outbursts in Paris beginning next Wednesday.
Despite the media frenzy surrounding the designer, Perfume Holding is going ahead with the launch of an edp version of Parlez-Moi d’Amour. The stronger, “more sensual” scent will enter Europe, the Middle East and Asia in October.
For the edp, International Flavors & Fragrances’ Aliénor Massenet added notes of mandarin, raspberry, chypre and vanilla to the formula. At launch, it will be priced 42, 59 and 69 euros, or $60, $85 and $99, respectively, for 30-, 50- and 80-ml. versions. An ad campaign will star Taylor Momsen, who already featured in visuals for the edt.
The Galliano business is based mainly on licensing. Key partners include Gibò Co. SpA for the signature men’s and women’s collections; Ittierre SpA for the second line, Galliano; Diesel for children’s wear; Marcolin SpA for eyewear; Albisetti for swimwear, and Morellato for watches.
As reported, retailers in North America and the U.K. reacted immediately and sharply to the scandal in March and often pulled products off shelves, while the business in other regions — including Asia, Europe and the Middle East — remained largely unaffected.
Meanwhile, the Galliano company, controlled by Christian Dior SA, has received unsolicited expressions of interest in the business from several of its Italian licensing partners as well as a Chinese group and a firm from the Middle East, even though the company has not been put up for sale.
On Thursday, a spokeswoman for Gibò said, “From our point of view the feedback is positive and the customers are showing they’re attached and faithful to the brand.”
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews