By  on April 1, 1994

NEW YORK -- Just a little over a month has passed since Pavion Ltd. named Lawrence Pesin executive vice president and president of its new fragrance division, but already the company has laid the groundwork for building a business.

Pavion, which manufactures Wet'N'Wild, Black Radiance and Solo Para Ti, all cosmetics lines for the mass market, has two strategies for expanding into fragrance.

In September, it will relaunch the five scents -- Aphrodesia for men and for women, Tigress and Woodhue for men and for women -- that it bought from Unilever's Faberge division last year. In spring 1995, Pavion will extend its top-selling Wet'N'Wild budget-priced cosmetics into a women's fragrance brand.

"There has never been a better opportunity to get into the mass fragrance market," Pesin said. "Unlike the prestige end, the category has really been underpromoted. With the exception of Coty, there has been a real lack of creativity and new product introductions in the mass fragrance market."

Pavion intends to move slowly; its first effort will be to relaunch the five acquired scents.

According to Pesin, those brands peaked in the late Sixties and early Seventies with an estimated wholesale volume of $10 million to $20 million. In recent years, their sales have eroded to a fraction of that amount, Pesin said.

Next fall, the fragrances are slated to hit close to 3,000 of Wet'N'Wild's 20,000 doors. "We are relaunching the brands in limited Pavion distribution to get a feel for their potential," Pesin said. "As they take off, we will slowly roll them out to more doors."

According to Pesin, the original scents have been revised and updated but keep their original fragrance classifications.

Tigress, the best-known of the brands, is an earthy chypre; Aphrodesia for women is a floral oriental and the men's version is a spicy oriental. Both Woodhue scents have woodsy green notes.

All five fragrances will be launched in a 3.3-oz. eau de toilette spray with a suggested retail price of $9.95.

"For now, we have no plans to expand the fragrances into any lengthy presentation," Pesin said. "We really want to keep it simple so we can stay focused."

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