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Rochas’s Tocade to Bow in Sept.

<CS:BOLD>PARIS -- Rochas Paris is preparing to introduce Tocade, its first new women's fragrance since Byzance seven years ago.<BR><BR>The launch, set for September, will be worldwide, and for its first three months, sales volume is expected to be $26...

PARIS — Rochas Paris is preparing to introduce Tocade, its first new women’s fragrance since Byzance seven years ago.

The launch, set for September, will be worldwide, and for its first three months, sales volume is expected to be $26 million (150 million francs), according to Edda Wendig, the company’s president. She predicted volume will grow by 33 percent in 1995 to $35 million (200 million francs).

Tocade’s international rollout is part of a three-year plan drafted by Rochas’s parent, Wella AG of Darmstadt, Germany, according to Wendig, who was named to her post last June. She was president of Wella’s Rene Garraud cosmetics division.

Wendig succeeded Laurent Normand, who left Rochas following the failure of Wella’s efforts to sell the former couture house.

“Our priorities are perfume, cosmetics and fashion — in that order,” said Wendig during Tocade’s unveiling here last week.

The launch of Tocade in Paris is slated for Sept. 5. The scent will be sold in 1,800 doors in France and 6,000 overall in Europe.

It be will rolled out to U.S. stores between Sept. 6 and mid-October, said Thierry Rouquette, the president of Rochas’s U.S. subsidiary, Rochas Paris Inc.

“We intend to launch Tocade in the U.S. in a very limited way, like what we did with Byzance,” said Rouquette. “We’ll have around 100 doors this fall, which represents — at maximum — three department or specialty store chains,” Rouquette said.

The name of the scent, which will be aimed at women in their 20s, comes from “toquade,” the French word for “infatuation” or “fad.”

Developed with perfumer Maurice Roucel of Quest International, it has as its main notes rose, vanilla and amber and also contains iris, bergamot, geranium and magnolia. The bottle was designed by Serge Mansou.

As for Tocade’s price points, the top item is a 0.5-oz. perfume, at $118 (660 francs), while a 1.7-oz. eau de toilette pour will retail for $44 (245 francs).

The line will include a deodorant and a body lotion.

From the launch period through 1995, Rochas will spend roughly $18 million (100 million francs), or two-thirds of projected sales, on print and television advertising and promotion, according to Odile Lobadowsky, the company’s international marketing director.

With Tocade as a boost, total worldwide Rochas sales are expected to grow 25 percent to $133 million (750 million francs) this year.

The men’s and women’s versions of Eau de Rochas now account for 40 percent of Rochas perfume sales. Byzance accounts for another 22 percent of its fragrance business, while Madame Rochas generates 12 percent and Globe and Femme about 8 percent each. The remainder of the perfume sales are made up of a handful of minor fragrances.

The fragrance business generates 80 percent of total Rochas revenues, while of the remaining 20 percent, cosmetics — under the Rouge Gourmand label — accounts for 12 percent and fashion represents 8 percent.

— K.W.