James Kaliardos, lead makeup artist for MAC, was inspired by retro beauties Marlene Dietrich and Lauren Hutton for the structured golden look he created at Ruffian’s spring showing. “These are fantastic, independent, sexy women,” said Kaliardos, who added that Dietrich ventured bravely into Germany during WWII with generals Gavin and Patton. “This look is about being in the trenches and the deserts, still looking glamorous.”
Complexions were made to look “warm” with bronzer, while eye creases were contoured in a dark brown metallic shadow “for depth and dimension,” said Kaliardos. A “strong gold” shade was used on eyelids, and lips were coated in a pale peach gloss. “This is a woman who makes her own choices,” he continued. “There’s a toughness, but it’s beautiful.”
Hair, styled by Neil Moodie for Bumble and bumble, offset the structured faces by offering a feeling of undoneness and an unexpected shiny finish. “This is a really fresh way to wear a chignon,” said Moodie, who also cited Susan Travers, the first woman to join the French Foreign Legion, as an inspiration. “There is a glow to it, as if she just came out of the Sahara.”
After an initial application of Bumble Prep Spray, Moodie finger brushed hair back into a low ponytail, adding in silicone-rich Bumble Straight so strands would “glisten under the light.” He then used Bumble Gel throughout the ponytail and twisted it into a flattened, slightly oblong-shaped chignon for a “loose, chic, few-days-old” look. “It’s strong, a bit severe, but there’s a softness,” said Moodie.
Nails, done by lead artist Amanda Fontanarrosa for CND, featured Ruffian’s signature half-moon design, inspired by the designers’ collection of vintage Vogue magazines. “It’s a very flawless 1940s design,” said Fontanarrosa of the beige-and-black rounded nail. “The middle is neutral but not sheer.”
Each ring finger had a Ruffian monogram overlay and nails were filed into a vintage almond shape. “These are extensions of the finger,” said Fontanarrosa.
“It’s Ruffian femininity, diplomacy and beauty,” said Ruffian designer Claude Morais.
“The girls are ambassadoristas,” added designer Brian Wolk.
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)