James Kaliardos, lead makeup artist for MAC, was inspired by retro beauties Marlene Dietrich and Lauren Hutton for the structured golden look he created at Ruffian’s spring showing. “These are fantastic, independent, sexy women,” said Kaliardos, who added that Dietrich ventured bravely into Germany during WWII with generals Gavin and Patton. “This look is about being in the trenches and the deserts, still looking glamorous.”

Complexions were made to look “warm” with bronzer, while eye creases were contoured in a dark brown metallic shadow “for depth and dimension,” said Kaliardos. A “strong gold” shade was used on eyelids, and lips were coated in a pale peach gloss. “This is a woman who makes her own choices,” he continued. “There’s a toughness, but it’s beautiful.”

Hair, styled by Neil Moodie for Bumble and bumble, offset the structured faces by offering a feeling of undoneness and an unexpected shiny finish. “This is a really fresh way to wear a chignon,” said Moodie, who also cited Susan Travers, the first woman to join the French Foreign Legion, as an inspiration. “There is a glow to it, as if she just came out of the Sahara.”

After an initial application of Bumble Prep Spray, Moodie finger brushed hair back into a low ponytail, adding in silicone-rich Bumble Straight so strands would “glisten under the light.” He then used Bumble Gel throughout the ponytail and twisted it into a flattened, slightly oblong-shaped chignon for a “loose, chic, few-days-old” look. “It’s strong, a bit severe, but there’s a softness,” said Moodie.

Nails, done by lead artist Amanda Fontanarrosa for CND, featured Ruffian’s signature half-moon design, inspired by the designers’ collection of vintage Vogue magazines. “It’s a very flawless 1940s design,” said Fontanarrosa of the beige-and-black rounded nail. “The middle is neutral but not sheer.”

Each ring finger had a Ruffian monogram overlay and nails were filed into a vintage almond shape. “These are extensions of the finger,” said Fontanarrosa.

“It’s Ruffian femininity, diplomacy and beauty,” said Ruffian designer Claude Morais.

“The girls are ambassadoristas,” added designer Brian Wolk.


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