Imperial Russia inspired the over-the-top beauty look backstage at Zang Toi.
Hairstyles featured soft, frizzy curls in massive, asymmetric shapes, piled onto the tops of the models’ heads. “The shape is a little bit uneven,” said Eiji Yamane of Eiji Salon, for René Furterer. “On the side it’s a little bit bigger, a little unbalanced. I wanted it romantic and a little wide at the side.” To create the look, Yamane first applied René Furterer Vegetal Sculpting Gel all over the hair. He then added in “half head” wigs to increase the size of each bouffant, before using a curling iron to create ample amounts of ringlets. Next, he used René Furterer Naturia Dry Shampoo and mussed the curls with his fingers to deconstruct the look and add texture. “It’s more modern, it’s not old-fashioned, [like curls can sometimes be],” said Yamane, who completed the look with the Finishing Spray. “Because the theme was Russia, I saw that as a wide [style] and not conservative.”
Before models were made up, skin-care brand V Beauté was on hand to clean models’ faces and prep them for makeup application. Models were also given a dose of Undercover Agent Anti-Wrinkle Protecting Serum for a “dewy glow” and Eye Never Eye Crème. “Our skin care acts like a primer,” said Julie Macklowe, founder of the company.
Makeup, done by Rudy Miles, of Beauty by Rudy for Amazing Cosmetics, was centered around a strong eye, designed to play up the drama of neutral tones. “[Zang] mentioned Fabergé eggs and one of the beauties I think, of that is the geometry of it, the way the egg is sectioned and then all the jewels of course, so we thought we’d do the same thing with the eye, we actually took the eye and sectioned it and paired it with black and brown glimmer and shine,” said Miles, who added a “golden jewel tone” to the eyes as well. “We know colors abound this season, but there still is that woman who is very comfortable in neutrals, and neutrals aren’t boring necessarily,” he said, adding that “placement and shape” can easily update a classic neutral palette. “Especially since the collection has so much color in it — [we wanted to show] how a great neutral eye can be impactful, modern and everyday wear,” said Miles. Skin was kept “pristine” with a little contour at the ear to section the face, and lips were completely mute. Black mascara was used on the top and bottom lashes.
Nails, done by Cinnamon Bowser for Zoya, were, like the collection’s theme, opulent and regal. The look consisted of three shades: a blue sapphire called Catherine the Great, an emerald hue called Chinoiserie Fantasy and a custom-made shimmering shade of purple, dubbed Imperial Russia. “The iridescence of the shades actually mimic the sheen of the fabrics,” said Rebecca Isa, Zoya’s color designer, adding that the polishes featured “liquid crystal color run,” described as a “subtle, refined” holographic effect. Swarovski Elements, in coordinated shades, were placed atop the nail to finish off the look. “It’s meant to be over the top,” said Isa.