“Prestige girls aren’t going to wear a simple little Heidi braid,” said Antoinette Beenders for Aveda, who, like Siriano’s collection, was inspired by “well-off” Russian girls at to the opera. To achieve this “integrated fishtail” updo, Beenders began by creating a center part and prepping hair with Aveda Pure Abundance to plump the hair cuticle before blow-drying. “For braiding you don’t want slippery hair,” she said. “You want something to it. A bit of grip.” Beenders then integrated two “macramé-like” fishtail braids, which began at the crown, continued down to the nape of the neck and then to the ends of hair. They were brought together at the back of the head and pinned into place, while fly-aways were left to float freely. “It looks clean in the front and a little more romantic in the back,” said Beenders, who finished off the style with Control Force Firm Hold Hair Spray.
When asked about trends of the season, Beenders said, “What’s interesting this season is it’s all about customizing, it’s bespoke hair,” she said. “I think we finally got to a space in fashion where it’s OK to do something different and I like that. Everyone looking the same, I hate that.”
Polly Osmond, for MAC, set out to match the collection’s opulence with a diffused matte black eye and facial contouring. “We couldn’t go too clean on the face, otherwise it would have been lost,” she said. The focus of the beauty look was clearly the eye, which featured a smudgy “quarter shadow” effect. “[Color is] literally just on the outer edges,” said Osmond, who used velvety black MAC eye shadow in Carbon and Eye Kohl in Smolder.“We’re taking it wider at the corners,” she said. The top line of the lashes was given a very fine streak of MAC Fluidline gel liner in Blacktrack, which was feathered on the outer corners for a “diffused effect.”
Eyebrows were left natural, cheeks were shaded “to give a strong, austere Russian presence,” said Osmond. “I wanted the skin just to be really gorgeous. Matte on the T-zone and a little bit of highlight on the cheek.” Lips were given a “lip-tone” mauvy-nude lipstick shade with a dabbing of lip gloss to finish things off. Asked about recent trends that have inspired her, Osmond said “My thing is, especially at the couture shows, I liked seeing how makeup is becoming a little undone, a bit freer. It’s not so perfect anymore and I like that. It makes it a little more real. And we’re doing beauty campaigns right now and there’s no retouching. I like seeing real people that have real personalities. It gives the makeup a personality. I am trying to teach my assistants, don’t be so uptight with it, just let it go. You can always wipe it off if it goes wrong.”