BARCELONA -- With the launch of Jil Sander Sun Men this spring, a new era will dawn on Jil Sander beauty.
The men's scent is the first fragrance in which Milan Vukmirovic, the new artistic director of Jil Sander, has had a hand. Upon arriving at the company in 2000, he began concentrating on the product's image -- particularly its advertising campaign.
The direction he took for the fragrance's visual is similar to that he's chosen for Jil Sander men's fashion.
"I tried to open the scale of the men's wear," explained Vukmirovic, who said that one of the changes he made was to open the top two buttons of his models' shirts to evoke some sensuality and warmth. Likewise, he's added softness to the Sun Men campaign and the reworked ad for the women's Sun scent, which was launched 13 years ago. Both now show sun-dappled models outside.
The single- and double-page visuals for Sun Men, shot by Craig McDean, feature a black-and-white picture of open-shirted model Jiri Schroeder gazing into the distance. Next to him is a white-and-orange Sun Men bottle.
"It shows a man [full] of pleasure and well-being," said Frederique Bernasconi, marketing director of Jil Sander. "The man is comfortable, very serene, with a summer spirit."
Air's Tho Van Tran worked with Vukmirovic on the campaign, whose tag line reads "Summer Inside You." It will break starting in May with single and double pages.
There also will be "a heavy winter campaign," said Bernasconi.
The Jil Sander project was unveiled to the press at a two-day event in Barcelona, which was chosen for its cultural roots and links with the sun and sea, according to Bernd Beetz, chief executive officer of Coty Inc., which holds the Jil Sander beauty license.
Jil Sander, alongside brands such as Davidoff, Cool Water, Lancaster, Joop and Chopard, comprise Coty's Lancaster Group. It is the prestige division that Beetz expects will ring up double-digit growth over the next three years to become a $1 billion affair by fiscal 2005.
As of June 30, 2001, 35 percent of Coty's sales were generated in the prestige retail channel. The firm's net sales in the period were $1.65 billion.While Beetz would not divulge how much the new Sun Men fragrance could contribute to the growth, industry sources estimate the new fragrance could ring up $20 million in retail sales during its first 12 months.
"What is Jil Sander Sun all about?" asked Bernasconi, who said it pertains to a man who's sure of himself and seductive. It's about "a state of mind, a touch of summer in everyday life," and also the values of simplicity, minimalism, purity and modernity found in Jil Sander fashion, she continued.
The aromatic amber, woody fragrance was created by International Flavors & Fragrances' Beatrice Piquet and Alain Astori and contains numerous "radiances," or accords that include "intense energy," such as bergamot, calone and rosemary; "solar pleasure," which has nutmeg, white cardamom and plumeria, and "sensual emotion" counts woods such as cedarwood, amber and bio-musk among its notes.
Likewise, there are interplays of contrasting elements in the packaging, created by Fabien Baron. The frosted white, square bottle is topped with an orange metal cap and orange writing down the right-hand side.
The launch of Sun Men will begin in May in Germany, the Netherlands, Belgium, Austria, Spain, Switzerland, Harrods in the U.K., Cyprus, the Mideast and duty-free. Then, in spring 2003, Italy, France and the U.S. are expected to get the scent.
Sampling at the time of introduction will include 1.5-ml. and 2.5-ml. vials and 5-ml. miniatures.
The short Sun Men line includes a 75-ml. eau de toilette spray for $31.30; a 75-ml. aftershave splash for $23.50; a 50-ml. facial moisturizing gel for $20; a 200-ml. allover shampoo for $14.80; a 75-ml. deodorant stick for $15.60, and a 150-ml. deodorant spray for $16.50. All of the dollar prices are converted from the euro at current exchange rates and are for France.
Jil Sander, which launched a women's Sun fragrance in 1989, currently has one other men's scent and five women's fragrances in its portfolio.
"Jil Sander Sun Men will not cannibalize the other men's fragrance [Sander for Men] at all," said Beetz, explaining it targets a younger consumer, who is about 20 to 30 years old.Jil Sander is among the best-sellers in German-speaking countries, he said. But the brand has been working to widen its geographic reach. It concentrated on expanding in Italy last year, for instance.
In fact, there is an ongoing geographic push for all of the Lancaster brands.
"We have a very strong base and still have a lot of potential to grow," he explained. "We have a very strong position in Europe, where we are number four."
He said the division also has a strong position in China, though there needs to be a push of Lancaster brands into its surrounding countries. Likewise, the group will work to strengthen its presence in France.
Beetz said the company also is actively pursuing other opportunities providing valuable synergies to become part of his business. New brands, therefore, could be signed on as early as this year.
But the idea is not to add a plethora of small names to the Lancaster stable. "I want a short portfolio of rather big brands," said Beetz.
However, he said the main goal is to concentrate on core brands. At Jil Sander, he said, new ideas are expected to come from the new designer.
Vukmirovic, for his part, is up to the challenge. "I think it is time to break the rules of the market," he said. "It is very exciting."
Next up for Jil Sander, he said, will be two new women's scents: one for 2003 and another in 2 1/2 years.
My character, Dinah Madani, is just the coolest, [most] badass woman imaginable," says @amberroserevah. The actress stars in @marvel's newest series on @netflix, @thepunisher. To prepare for her role, Revah sat down with Homeland agents to get a real sense of with Dinah's day-to-day life is really like. Read our full interview on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
A scene from the 91st annual @macys Thanksgiving Day Parade. The parade, which boasts 50 million TV viewers and 3.5 million on-site spectators, is considered one of the largest and most watched parades in the world. (📷: Jason Szenes/EPA-REX)
The circus came to @bloomingdales 59th Street on Tuesday night and lit up Lexington Avenue with acrobatic dancers, death-defying knife throwing, sword swallowing and aerial acts with no net. The 45 minutes of theatrics built up to unveiling the holiday windows depicting @swarovski crystal-encrusted circus pieces and scenes from “The Greatest Showman” – songs from the soundtrack included. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Joshua Scott)
The psychedelic fashion that pervaded the ’60s is back with an exhibit at the @museumofcityny. “Mode New York: Fashion Takes a Trip” chronicles the changing styles from 1960 through 1973 and features designers such as @ysl, @oscardelarenta and more. The exhibition, which is on display through April 1, is organized into four periods: First Lady Fasion, Youthquake, New Bohemia and New Nonchalance. Pictured here is model Pat Bardonella during the Garvey Day Parade in 1968. (📷: @kwamebphoto) #wwdeye #wwdfashion
“People should be a lot more honest in expressing both the dark and light of themselves. We need to give each other the space to do that because it’s the only way we can grow and evolve,” says @noelwells of her new film “Mr. Roosevelt,” which is largely based on her own struggles. Unexpectedly leaving @nbcsnl in 2014 after just one season, Wells felt set back in her self-esteem and career trajectory. She quickly refocused her energy to more personal projects, which led to the completion of “Mr. Roosevelt.” Read the rest of WWD’s interview with the “Master of None” actress on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
@barbrastreisand is giving fans a chance to see her perform up close in a new concert series, which makes its debut on @Netflix today. From behind-the-scenes takes to her concert performance in Miami last December, the two-hour streaming special captures Streisand in her element. Pictured here is the singer/actress photographed for WWD in 1963. (📷: Palmieri Tony) #wwdeye #wwdarchive
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)