Bold sophistication reigned backstage at Erin Fetherston’s spring show Sunday night.
Strong eyes and elegant updos complimented a grown-up collection that boasted details in everything from crystals and lace to gold, silver and leather. “I wanted hair to be up and off the neck because that’s where a lot of the collection’s details are. It was all about the length of the neck,” explained hairstylist Lyndell Mansfield, working on behalf of Bumble and bumble. “I wanted to do a twist on the hard Helmut Newton flip look and the Seventies with this undone soft texture. I took a classic chignon lower bun style, and mashed it up so that it looks strong from the front, and very cool from the side. From the back it just looks soft and elegant.”
To achieve this, Mansfield started out with a strong side part, and then did a “really nice” blowout using Bumble and bumble’s Thickening Lotion to give proper curl. For shine, she applied Bumble’s gel on the hairline and part line. Hair was then brushed all the way back and up as if doing a ponytail, before placing two pins about an inch behind the ear. Pins were then pushed from the neck to the top of the head before being secured.
Next, Mansfield pulled up and pinned the bottom of the hairline “to get a nice hard, pulled-back shape.” Once completing the same process on the other side, she separated all remaining hair into two sections: One was rolled underneath and pushed into the head and then pinned, while the other section was placed over the first, and then rolled, tucked and pinned underneath for a draping effect.
Finally, she took all remaining hair, folding it and mashing it up before pinning into place with U-pins. Hair was set with Bumble’s Spray de Mode. Said Mansfield: “I wanted hair to look like it had an elegance, a femininity and a powerfulness but a coolness.”
Makeup echoed that powerful femininity, expressed through strong dark eyes that offset clean skin and bare lips. “The inspiration was quite romantic, taken from the film era of the Seventies,” said makeup artist Lucia Pica working for MAC Cosmetics. “The girls are wearing transparent mesh hats, so we wanted to add abstract to the eyes because the light filters through the mesh of the hat and sits really nicely on top of the eye.”
To achieve this, Pica created an elongated winged-style eye that was “not so much defined but diffused,” in burnished warm brown tones to “make eyes pop.” She applied MAC’s eye shadows in Brun, Cork and Symmetry as well as a dark cream liner, emphasizing the outer corner of the eye. “We set eyes against really perfect, clean skin that doesn’t look too made-up so skin retains a more modern feel,” she explained.
MAC’s Creme Blush in Optimistic Orange was applied under the eyes and high on the cheekbones. “It’s a look that is more womanly and a bit more feminine as opposed to pretty,” said Pica. “It’s more flush, less blush, designed to look like it belongs to the skin rather than sitting on top of it.”