By  on November 21, 2017
Phuong Dang Raw Secret

The Score: 4.9The Verdict: The panel found points of interest such as modern dry green notes, but the overall effect was deemed to be too familiar.Innovation score: 7Artistic: 7“Built on a series of contrasts — a bit sharp, but never turning bland.”Innovation: 7Artistic: 7“The only challenge I have with this perfume is that it develops a very strong, dirty dead lily note which is so persistent and hits my nose like an ice pick. However after many hours, a fully developed woodsy, musky and ozonic background emerges. This fragrance is wonderfully interesting and I find myself wanting to smell it, but I am slightly repulsed at the same time.”Innovation: 3Artistic: 4“In the initial impression the scent wants to be original, but then in wear gets very boring and difficult to wear.”Innovation: 8Artistic: 2“It’s just a common fresh citrus, floral, fruity green aldehydic fragrance at first glance — a mass market, cheap toiletries product in a modern formula because the [staying power] and diffusion are very good.”Innovation: 5Artistic: 2“Nothing special, no need for another fragrance like this one. For me, this perfume is very ordinary.”Innovation: 5Artistic: 3“Welcoming eau fraîche, cut lime feeling, interesting use of modern dry green notes. However, harshly naked — I suspect not on purpose — and too ephemeral.”Innovation: 4Artistic: 5“I assume it must be for a body care product, where this type of note is reassuring and appears to remain popular. Its drydown is faithful to its top note.”Innovation: 7Artistic: 2“Ho hum, around the flowery-fruity bush we go — but hold on, a lecherous lily note pushes through. Its diffusion is extraordinary! Its tenacity, amazing.”ABOUT THE TEST AND JUDGES: This is a blind test, panelists are given vials of unidentified scent to judge impartially. Each of them gives a score ranging from 1 (forgettable) to 10 (unforgettable) and the numbers are computed into a final grade. The judges, led by chairman Michael Edwards, also make critiques, which are unattributed to encourage candor. The most promising scents are picked for judging in an effort to find and showcase excellence. WWD buys the products at retail, like any other consumer. The esteemed judges are: Michael Edwards, author of “Fragrances of the World” and “Perfume Legends”; Paul Austin, chief executive officer of sensory storytelling agency Austin Advisory Group; Jean-Claude Delville, senior perfumer at Drom; Victoria Frolova, fragrance industry analyst and Bois de Jasmin editor; Christophe Laudamiel, master perfumer at DreamAir; Nathalie Pichard, owner of training and evaluation agency Topnotes; Chantal Roos, cocreator of Roos & Roos Co.; Luca Turin, biophysicist and perfume critic for arabia.style.com, and Kevin Verspoor, founder of PerfumeKev LLC.

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