By  on December 10, 2004

Estee Lauder

NEW YORK — Estée Lauder is taking another stab at perfection.

The brand plans to unveil Perfectionist CP+ — which will replace its existing Perfectionist serum, launched two years ago — in March. Perfectionist CP+ is intended to help mitigate lines, wrinkles and age spots and is a “second generation” to the first product, which is currently the brand’s best-selling antiaging stockkeeping unit, said Peter Lichtenthal, senior vice president of global marketing for Estée Lauder.

“Our goal is to remain at the cutting edge of skin care technologies,” said Lichtenthal. “Because these technologies are evolving at such a rapid rate, we made the decision to replace our first version of Perfectionist with Perfectionist CP+, which takes the original to a new level. While the original has been a great seller, we want to continue to offer our customers the most efficacious product.”

In fact, Perfectionist CP+ contains five technologies and ingredients that are proprietary to Lauder, said Daniel Maes, the company’s global vice president of research and development. “Wrinkles are caused by the constant folding and unfolding of skin, which creates weak spots — micro-tears — in the skin,” said Maes. “That inflames the cells, and puts the cells at the bottom of the skin’s surface under incredible stress. Our objective with this technology was to see how we could stop the squeezing of the cells.”

The brand’s Flexible Elastomer Technology is designed to immobilize wrinkles, reducing the strain on cells, while Poly-Collagen Peptides, intended to mimic collagen fragments similar to those found in the skin, are said to boost collagen production and fill in wrinkles.

Three additional proprietary ingredients are also included. Triple Enzyme Technology with apiginenin, siegesbeckia and boswellia extracts is said to help peptides retain their full strength as they are disseminated; a second-generation BioSync Activating Complex combines two proteins, integrins and laminins, and Cell Vector Technology to boost ingredient delivery, and an antioxidant blend is intended to neutralize free radicals. Added to this potent cocktail is melanase. “This breaks down abnormal pockets of melanin, which helps to lighten age spots,” said Maes.Perfectionist CP+ will be available in two sizes — 1.7 oz. for $80 and 1 oz. for $55 — in Lauder’s full U.S. department store distribution, currently about 2,200 doors.

The current Perfectionist user is 28-plus, noted Daniel Annese, vice president of marketing, North America, for Estée Lauder. “However, it’s likely that we will draw in younger consumers as well with this new product,” he said. “The U.S. consumer, in particular, is especially interested in line prevention, and she is turning to antiaging products at a younger age.”

National print advertising featuring spokesmodel Carolyn Murphy is set to break in April fashion, beauty and lifestyle magazines. As well, upward of three million samples — mostly BeautiSeals in national magazines — are expected to be distributed. While none of the executives would comment on projected sales or advertising spending, industry sources estimated that Perfectionist CP + could do $20 million at retail in the U.S. in its first year, and that about $7 million would be spent on advertising and promotion.Clinique

NEW YORK — Clinique is adding a new wrinkle to its Repairwear franchise this spring.

In March, Repairwear Deep Wrinkle Concentrate for Face & Eye will become part of the nearly two-year-old Repairwear line.

Designed to be used twice a day under moisturizer, the wrinkle concentrate joins Repairwear day and night creams, launched in December 2003 and December 2002, respectively.

Deep Wrinkle Concentrate’s key selling point is that it addresses wrinkles at their base, said Susan Akkad, vice president of global treatment marketing for Clinique. “We’re taking a bottoms-up strategy — this technology, as a whole, hoists the wrinkle up from the base of the skin to the surface,” she said.

Proprietary targeted technology accounts for the results, said Debbie D’Aquino, vice president of global product development, treatment, for Clinique.“Wrinkles start at the base of the skin,” she explained. “Repetitive facial motions stretch and compress collagen fibers, eventually breaking them down. Then those compressed cells cut back on collagen production, which worsens the problem.”

Clinique addresses these issues with a quintet of key ingredients, ranging from calming the skin to helping it regenerate, said D’Aquino. “First, the skin is calmed with algae extract, sucrose and siegesbeckia orientalis extract. Secondly, collagen is relocated with a proprietary peptide complex we’ve developed, amino C and caffeine. Next, skin is energized with yeast extract and artemia extracts, and moisturized with sodium hyaluronate, shea butter and glycerin. Finally, skin is brightened and filled in with a mix that includes silica complex, mica and optical brighteners.”Amino C and caffeine are especially important, noted Akkad, because they trigger the production of fibronectin, a key foundation upon which collagen is built. “Fibronectin is like the drywall on which collagen is laid,” she explained. And the technology as a whole, she said, signals to the skin where these repairs need to take place, providing targeted results.

Repairwear Deep Wrinkle Concentrate will retail for $52 and will be available in Clinique’s full U.S. department and specialty store distribution, about 2,200 doors. It will also be available at It is expected to appeal most strongly to those over 30, although Akkad noted that savvy twentysomethings are becoming “more aggressive” about damage prevention, so it is likely to appeal to this age group, as well.

National advertising will begin running in March fashion, beauty and lifestyle magazines, including Allure, Vogue, Redbook and O, The Oprah Magazine. The brand is also planning to include BeautiSeal samples in selected magazines, with a total of two million samples expected to be disseminated.

While executives declined to comment on projected sales or advertising spending, industry sources estimated that the product will do upward of $20 million at retail in its first year, and that about $3 million will be spent on advertising and promotion.Givenchy

NEW YORK — Givenchy’s latest night cream aims to give consumers the chance to eradicate wrinkles in their sleep — sans surgical intervention.

No Surgetics Night, the newest addition to the brand’s plastic-surgery-in-a-jar-positioned No Surgetics franchise, launches in the U.S. in March.

Key ingredients are Skin Peel, Collagen Up and D’Compress, three proprietary concoctions that together form the brand’s Triple Anti-Wrinkle Action, said Sheila Cutner, vice president of marketing and public relations for Guerlain and Parfums Givenchy in the U.S. Simply put, she said, the ingredients work in tandem to plump wrinkles from the bottom up.

Skin Peel provides light peeling action using Vitamin A palmitate, intended to smooth the skin’s surface. Collagen Up, a combination of centella asiatica and elhibin, is designed to stimulate support fibers in the skin, addressing deep wrinkles by stimulating collagen production and slowing its deterioration, said Lena Lee, marketing manager for Givenchy. “The result is wrinkles that are significantly reduced in length and depth,” she said. The third piece of the equation, D’Compress, is an “herbal Botox-like” ingredient driven by calmosensine, a peptide that is said to reduce tension on the skin caused by stress, said Lee. It also relaxes expression lines, she added.No Surgetics Night’s key users are expected to be in the 35-plus age range, although Cutner noted that the brand’s franchise is also experiencing increased growth in the 25- to 34-year-old age range. “Skin care, now more than ever, has become an aspirational category,” said Cutner. “Consumers are realizing at younger and younger ages how important it is to care for their skin.”

A 50-ml jar of No Surgetics Night will retail for $100, on a par with the other stockkeeping units in the No Surgetics range — the line’s serum, day cream and eye cream retail for $110, $100 and $80, respectively. The first No Surgetics products launched in France in 2002; the serum, the next most recent addition to the lineup, launched in October in both in the U.S. and in France.

While neither executive would comment on projected sales for No Surgetics Night, industry sources estimated that it could do $1 million at retail in its first year on counter in the U.S.

In the U.S., No Surgetics Night will be available in just two doors, Saks Fifth Avenue in New York City and Beverly Hills, and on Givenchy’s recently revamped Le Makeup is also available in those doors only, although both the skin care and the makeup will enter at least four additional doors in the U.S. in spring 2005, said Cutner. “Controlled distribution takes time, and our aim is to make sure we’re in the right doors,” she said. “We’re willing to take the time to do it right.”

 Due to the brand’s very selective distribution, national advertising for the No Surgetics franchise is not currently planned, Cutner added.

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