OLSEN BEAUTY: Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen’s mary-kateandashley beauty line has come to an end. The line was produced under license by NuWorld Beauty and sold primarily at Wal-Mart. Launched in 2002, its assortment included everything from scents to hair appliances. Despite mary-kateandashley’s beauty exit, the Olsens aren’t ruling out the beauty business. A spokeswoman for the fashionable duo, whose junior brand, Olsenboye, will bow at J.C. Penney in February, indicated the Olsens might consider reentering beauty under the Olsenboye label after the debut of apparel and accessories.
BOOTS NUMBERS: Alliance Boots, owner of health and beauty retailer Boots, reported first-half revenues rose 11.6 percent to 9 billion pounds, or $14.36 billion at average exchange. The firm’s health and beauty division, which includes sales generated by health care and beauty products, posted growth of 6.2 percent to 3.58 billion pounds, or $5.71 billion, for the six-month period ended Sept. 30. “In beauty, we benefited from the successful launch of a number of new products, including No7 Protect & Perfect Intense Beauty Serum,” stated Alliance Boots. The firm’s pharmaceuticals wholesaling business rang up 6.05 billion pounds, or $9.65 billion, in the half, representing an year-over-year spike of 13.8 percent.
TFWA ATTENDANCE: The five-day TFWA World Exhibition, which ended Oct. 23, registered 5,013 visitors, some 13 percent fewer than in the 2008 session. Overall, the number of firms sending employees to the trade show this year decreased 11 percent versus 2008, to 2,517. The amount of duty free and travel-retail operators participating in the show remained stable, although the number of their employees attending the fair dipped 9 percent. Eighteen percent fewer landlord companies were present. Combined footfall of duty free and travel-retail operators plus landlords decreased. Company attendance was down 4 percent and the firms sent 13 percent fewer people. There were 463 exhibitors representing approximately 3,000 brands at the TFWA World Exhibition. The fragrance and cosmetics industry had the lion’s share of stands, with 25 percent. Fashion and accessories had 18 percent.
BERGER TO COTY: Coty Prestige Lancaster Group has a new marketing director. Ralf-Michael Berger has taken over from Nicole Nitschke, who has been serving as general manager for the Mainz, Germany-based firm since July. Berger, 39, was previously at Johnson & Johnson in both Düsseldorf and Great Britain, most recently serving as customer marketing manager for beauty and sales.
ADDING ON: Markwins International has added two new product designers to its expanding Innovation Team, which reports to Eric Chen, chief architect and chief executive officer. Ed Mancia, who contributed to earlier development of Markwins’ brands, brings 15 years of beauty and fashion design leadership to the team. Joining Mancia is Grace Tsai, who has experience in design and fashion with a global perspective.
SUPER SCENT: Claudia Schiffer and Alberta Ferretti gave their signatures a workout Wednesday. The pair held court in Harrods’ perfume hall and signed bottles of Ferretti’s debut scent, which is fronted by Schiffer.
GREEN MOVE: As part of its bid to cut carbon emissions in half by 2015, L’Oréal has made its Libramont, Belgium, plant carbon neutral and run wholly on green energy. The French beauty giant bills the center to be the first of its kind in Europe. The site’s electricity and heat run on methane gas, which is produced by transformed biomass culled from local farms and the agro-alimentary industry.
SPRING CLEAN: Green & Spring is branching into facial skin care. The British brand, which bowed in June with a 23-stockkeeping-unit natural bath and body line, has introduced 10 treatment items using ingredients indigenous to the U.K., including chamomile, rose hip oil and kaolin clay. There’s a Nourishing Day Moisturiser, Restoring Face Serum and Refreshing Eye Cream. Prices range from $12.20, for a lip balm to $62 for the Gentle Face Refiner. Green & Spring Skincare is sold exclusively in Harvey Nichols and on the brand’s Web site.
HAIR COLOR FOR U: Umberto Savone, the Beverly Hills salon owner and hairstylist behind Umberto hair care, is leaping into hair color for the first time with U Color by Umberto launching this month in 24 demipermanent shades. U Color features a 3-oz. sachet packet — two come in each $12 box — that separates the color, developer and equalizer until the user combines the formula. U Color will sell at high-end drugstores, beauty supply stores and salon chains.
THE BEAUTY OF TV: ShopNBC keeps building its beauty roster. The television shopping network premiered plastic surgeon Robert Rey’s skin care line on Oct. 25 and Ted Gibson’s namesake hair products on Oct. 27. Beauty Confidential, a show focusing on brands creating buzz, introduced nail polishes by Butter London and Np2; fragrances by Eau Flirt, Forever Lily and Trance Essence and hair care by Brandon Martinez.
CALIFORNIA MOVES: The Fairest, the Southern California-based online beauty private sale venue, has appointed Art Swanberg as its chief executive officer and Kimberly Logan as its vice president of merchandising. Swanberg was formerly the president and ceo of Dermstore.com, and chief operating officer of PCA Skin. Logan had been the business vice president at Dermstore.com.
U MED TAPS TEN: University Medical Pharmaceuticals, the marketer of mass skin care products, has hired Jeffrey Ten as senior vice president of international sales. Ten, who will report to chief executive officer Raymond Francis, was previously president of ck Calvin Klein Beauty for the Americas.
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)
@heriethpaul and @gracebol have a moment on the @victoriassecret fashion show 2017. See every look from the runway on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo) #wwdfashion #victoriassecret #VSFashionShow
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia