Delicate yet graphic looks reigned backstage at Donna Karan’s spring show Monday. Eyes painted with thick white eyeliner popped againt pale skin and bare lips, accenting a collection dominated by a palette of muted grays.
“We were looking at the colors of the clothes in the collection and there were these beautiful neutral grays, almost blues,” said makeup artist Pat McGrath. “And so we wanted the faces to look statuesque, almost serene.”
To achieve this, McGrath applied white eyeliner above the eyes, and placed CoverGirl’s new Shadow Blast eye pencil in Silver Sky around the eyes. To create pale skin, McGrath used CoverGirl’s Clean Foundation all over the face, dotting blemishes and the under-eye area with the brand’s Simply Ageless Corrector. Lips were left nude, patted with just a touch of concealer on top. McGrath gave cheeks just a “tiny bit of pink,” mixing CoverGirl’s Olay Simply Ageless Sculpting Blush in 200 and 210.
“It’s pale and interesting,” said McGrath “but at the same time strong and graphic.” Hair, placed in a loose ponytail, evoked a fresh and airy feel at the hands of stylist Eugene Souleiman, who was working on behalf of Wella.
“The really nice thing is it’s straightened hair, it’s not set,” said Souleiman. “The ponytail is kind of straight. It’s a little bit jagged, but it’s not destroyed.”
A strong diagonal part in the front lent a masculine appeal to the look, while the pushed-up ponytail in the back achieved a round and opulent effect.
“There are areas in the clothing that are gathered and round, so I just wanted to keep hair sleek but with no product in it, a combination of something really perfect but that looks a little lighter, like it has air in it,” said Souleiman.”We pushed the ponytail up to create that round wideness and tied it with a white knicker elastic.”
Souleiman blew out hair before teasing it, brushing it out and then pushing into a low ponytail. “It’s about a smart woman,” he said. “She looks like a healthy stylish Donna Karan woman.”