A strong, arching brow punctuated the face at Prada. Makeup artist Pat McGrath created the heavy accent to the face, guided by designer Miuccia Prada, who wanted to celebrate womanhood in its many facets. “It’s supergraphic but ultrafeminine,” said McGrath, between filling in models’ brows with a soft pencil that matched the natural color. For the rest of the face, McGrath played with light and shade, blending a pale brown shadow on eyelids to the outer corner. Lip balm and a faint touch of taupe powder on the cheeks finished off the look. After spring’s big, dry-textured undone plait, Guido Palau laid on the gloss with Redken’s Vinyl Glam this season for a tight, low bun — covered with laser-cut snoods. “You can’t place the reference,” he said, adding, “Is it historical? Is it futuristic? It changes the perception of beauty — they look beautiful but in an austere way.”

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