Call it a postrecession beauty sighof relief. On the spring 2011runways, there was an ease—and anoptimism—to the hair and makeuplooks not seen in years.
From cheery brights for lips and eyes to Seventies-inspired hairstyles that harkened back to that decade’scarefree ebullience, a new sensibility emerged, one verymuch in keeping with how real women want to look—and,as important, feel—today.
“I loved spring,” says Aerin Lauder, senior vicepresident and creative director of Estée Lauder. “It reallyappealed to me as a consumer and the way I wear fashionand beauty. It’s wearable and saleable.”
In both the clothing and the makeup, Lauder singledout minimalism offset by bright pops of color applied in astraightforward manner. Gone are complicated looks likean intricately shaded smoky eye in six shades of plum,replaced by less fussy styles like the bold stripe of orangeeyeliner that Estée Lauder’s creative color director TomPecheux did at Derek Lam. “We’re seeing a new wayto play with color. It looks easy to apply, and it’s not ascomplicated as a really deﬁned eye,” says Lauder, whosefavorite look of the season was a Michael Kors mossgreen sheath. “Women are ready to have fun.”
Pecheux was far from alone in his use of bright color.Makeup artist Lucia Pieroni encircled eyes in a cloud of skyblue at Rochas, while Pat McGrath painted a vivid fuchsiaon the lids at Nina Ricci. Charlotte Willer, Maybelline New York’s global makeup artist, blended electric shades ofpink and orange for a bespoke lip at Z Spoke by Zac Posenand a bold cherry red at L.A.M.B., offset by a gold eye, andCharlotte Tilbury bathed eyes in lilac at Blumarine.
“It looked effortless on the face,” says MAC’s globalvice president of makeup artistry Gordon Espinet, ofTilbury’s purple peepers. “But what was cool was that shetook a color that we would traditionally think of as bridaland overly sweet and she made it look cool.”
The appearance of such colors now is not unexpected.“We are living through dangerous, difﬁcult times, and weneed that lift, that something that gets us energized,” saysLeatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone ColorInstitute. “That’s color. Especially in beauty, color lets yoube a kid with a paint box again, giving a sense of abandonand the attitude ‘Let’s have a good time and create.’ ”
Eiseman notes that what feels particularly newthis season is the preponderance of unexpected colorcombinations. “The old rules, like never crossing warm andcool colors, are being thrown out,” she says. “Now, we’reseeing colors being used with their opposites, to create anintensity and make a statement.”
The idea of illumination and metallics was also adominant theme on the runways—from the strongsilver eyes that McGrath created at Prada to the all-over iridescence at Nicole Farhi to the preponderance ofblondes on the catwalk. Vasso Petrou, global marketingdirector of trends and innovation at P&G Beauty, hasdubbed this trend “divine tech.”
“It’s very futuristic and innovative, when real sciencebecomes fashionable and creates a new standard ofaesthetics,” says Petrou. “This look reﬂects a modern takeon the urban world, where high technology is embeddedbut still needs to feel intuitive and pleasurable, as with theiPad.” That translates into shine and metallics, she says,noting, “In hair color, it’s about the golden, silver and roseshades, and with makeup it’s a micro iridescence, perfectsmoothness, very futuristic.”
Still, it’s a futuristic feeling tinged with humanity, saysmakeup artist and Revlon global artistic director GucciWestman, who noticed a deﬁnite shift in skin ﬁnishes thisseason. “We all did this sort of exaggeratedly luminous skin,superluminous, almost cyber skin,” says Westman. “I sawit everywhere, starting in New York and ending in Paris. Ididn’t notice any foreheads that were powdered. It was a veryexaggerated healthiness and luminosity. It looked like all ofthe girls had an oxygen facial before they went on the runway.”
On the opposite end of the futuristic spectrum was theSeventies redux. “For those of us who lived through theSeventies, in retrospect, when we look back, we recognizewhat a fun and expressive time it was,” says Carolyn Holba,senior vice president of U.S. marketing for MaybellineNew York–Garnier. “Hopefully we won’t make the samefashion mistakes,” she laughs, “but there is that play on therunway that is very reminiscent of the Seventies.”
“The Seventies were a time of optimism,” agrees JanArnold, co-founder and style director of CND. “It wasidealistic and there was some whimsy. People want to feelgood today, and that era was fun and playful.”
Hairwise, that translated into Guido Palau’s frizzfest atMarc Jacobs and his big barrel curls at Sonia Rykiel. Makeup-wise, it meant a more sculpted face. “We saw a lot of thenude face sculpted and shaded to perfection,” says Espinet.“Bronzer was used to structure a face rather than bronze aface. It’s the kind of makeup a man would be blind to, butthere’s actually a lot there. It’s about using the skin color andvariations on the individual skin color to create a look.”
As seemingly opposite as the looks were, still thecommon thread remained throughout the season: theidea of effortlessness. “People don’t want to have to spendtoo much time or effort on their looks,” says celebrityhairstylist and Tresemmé spokesperson Mara Roszak.“It is sexier and more feminine to not look so done,”she continues, noting that she expects the trickle-downinﬂ uence to be quickly felt. “The runway is where weget inspired,” she says. “It’s what celebrities startto wear and what we see in magazines. It’s whatwomen want to look like today.”
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)