During times of economic uncertainty, marketers are usually content to play it safe. This fall, though, there is a decided edge to beauty’s most compelling products and trends. Consider: No fewer than five of the biggest women’s fragrance launches—among them Estée Lauder’s Sensuous, Lancôme’s Magnifique and Calvin Klein’s Secret Obsession—are orientals. The safe choice would have been florals. Lipstick has replaced lip gloss for those at the vanguard of style with the color of choice being purple—not the classic red. The result is a season unlike others in recent memory, rich in newness and hopefully relevant enough to convince consumers to open their pocketbooks.
After sorting through literally thousands of products to produce this issue, I’d say marketers have reason to be optimistic. The best of the season’s offerings have a real raison d’être. As you’ll see in “Fall Beauty Guide,” our A to Z compendium of the most important products and trends, there’s a true diversity of offerings, each with a clear target market in mind.
In skin care, especially, brands have done a superb job of reading the prevailing winds and responding accordingly. As the number of consumers visiting spas continues to drop, a slew of products are launching that fill the gap between daily maintenance and professional treatments. As you’ll see in “The Modern Age”, there are a host of treatment-oriented masks and superconcentrated products and serums to combat major skin issues. Even the season’s new crop of cleansers and daily moisturizers goes above and beyond quotidian duties.
Drama permeated much of the hair and makeup on the fall ready-to-wear runways and we channel that spirit in “Deep Impact” on page 36. Who better than the striking flame-haired supermodel Karen Elson to represent the spirit of the season? Elson isn’t just a pretty—rather, beautiful—face, though. Married to rocker Jack White and a mother of two, she’s also unabashedly outspoken about the issues that matter to her, ranging from politics to the preponderance of prepubescent body types in fashion.
Surprisingly, the hair and makeup at the couture shows, held in Paris last July, were much more reserved. Usually a riot of color, texture and fantasy, as you’ll see in “Cool, Calm, Collected,” the looks this season were subdued, serene and chicly simple. Even Pat McGrath’s maquillage at Dior, which in the past has featured sequins, Day-Glo colors and feathers—all on the same face—was a relatively sedate arched brow with deep cherry red lips. The resulting dichotomy is the democratization of beauty trends, an array of looks that reflect what’s in vogue today but also allows women to find the vibe—and products—that are right for them. The days of consumers being dictated to by editorial and advertising images is over, giving way to a freedom to choose what statement they want to make. And as we head into the homestretch of the 2008 presidential campaign, isn’t a woman’s right to choose what it’s all about?
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty